98 540i 6sp issues -- new owner -- I'm freakin out man

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#1
I just bought this car which was throughly checked out in good shape. 92K miles. I'm having a few issues but I don't know if they're normal or indications of a problem. I'm trying not to think I have a problem child on my hands. Any ideas?

1) This am I got in to start her up and the brake pedal was rock solid. I park it in first gear and it is on a very slight incline in the garage. After starting, the pedal released and functioned normally. Also it rained last night and the temp dropped a good bit...???

2) I think the outside ambient temp sensor may be bad because it seems to be reading lower than normal and triggering the heat to come on in Auto mode. Yesterday it was hot as hell and I had the AC going on Auto. For fun, I pushed the windshield vent button to see if air would come out. It did and it was hot as hell, so I hit Auto again. Then I started to feel heat radiating out from under my seat. All the metal tracks and stuff were hot to the touch. I do not have heated seats. The car did not seem to cool well either even though cold air was coming through the dash vents. I thik hot air was also now coming out of the winshield vents while cold at the dash vents. After parking and looking around, I figured I must have triggered the heat mode with the winshield button and then the AC was competing with the heat at the same time. Soooo from now on I don't use Auto, I use the upper dash vent button and it blows darn cold...???

3) The shifter seemd to be pretty stiff sometimes, like this morning. It was rather stiff getting into gears...especially 1-3...3 is always tricky. Do they have a tendency to get stiff and loosen up depending on weather?

4) My headlights seem to bobble around a little over bumps. Are they loose and can they be tightend or is this some way to protect them from abrupt bumps. They are stock halogen setup I think.

5) Not really an issue but an observation/question. They say most BMWs have a CDV (clutch delay valve) inline on the clutch fluid line which prevents dropping the clutch abruptly and stressing the drivetrain. However, M models and some others do not. I think mine has it removed because with the traction control off it will tear ass pretty quick with the clutch. Doesn't seem to be much delay engaging if you want to drop it hard.

6) My car has a Dinan chip in it, with modest boost. I'm looking for good ban-for-the-buck improvements for speed. Is a CIA worth it? Any other suggestions? I don't really want to spend the $ for exhaust or intake manifold upgrades at the moment.


Thanks for any edu-macation.
 
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Chicago
#2
Nice car. [thumb]
1. Brakes operate on hydraulic pressure, in addition to the electronics of ABS, DSC and/or ASC+T electronic systems created by a running engine.
2. Temp sensor may be bad, but when it’s bad it normally reads –40. Check your control settings. Considering you just purchased the car, have your a/c checked. It may be full of inefficient refrigerant. You may want to vacuum and recharged the system.
3. Did you change all the fluids? Always change the fluids after purchasing a used vehicle to ensure proper maintenance. “Lifetime” for BMW means the life of the warranty.
4. You can check them, but depending on your previous vehicle the focused beam of a BMW can be misleading (no pun intended) because it is such an abrupt cutoff.
5. It may have been removed, but it’s the torque that tears ass. I can feel the delay on mine and it’s gets upsetting when parking.
6. CAI is a good investment and will add to the performance. Dinan is expensive, BenFer makes a quality CAI.
 
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#3
I bought from a private owner who had good records and kept it serviced properly so I didn't change fluids. However, on the next oil change, I'll put Mobil 1 10w-50 in the motor. Good point on the gear box fluids. I noticed the "lifetime" notation on the fluids and thought that was a little odd. I'll check the rear diff too. Thanks.

The AC contorl setting were like at 65. It was 90+ outside. Still not sure of the cause but if I keep it on dash vents only, it seems ok. I just have to regulate fan speed manually then.

The CDV I can visually confirm the next time on a lift which will be soon when I replace one of the Cat converters which is starting to rattle more and more. $825 plus labor...ouch.
 
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#4
The CDV will visually look the same, it’s the internals that make the difference CDV. Make sure the heat shields are not the source of the noise prior to having the Cats changed.
 
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Edmond, OK
#5
The headlights on the E39 have a TSB on them. The slides that adjust the headlights are designed to break, so it does not damage the headlight assembly during an impact. These slides fail after a few years use and you cannot purchase the slides, only the entire headlight assembly at $350.
 
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#8
Well I got an answer to #3 from my mechanic today. The shifting will be particularly stiff when the car is cold, or in cold weather. The oil in the manual tran case become thicker and resists shifting more. That's actually a good thing as it indocates the lube is holding up nicely for a 98. As the car warms up, the shifting becomes smoother. I noticed a big difference on 2 occassions when it rained, where the temp dropped a good 25 degrees in the AM.
 


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