Cold Start Issue?? Stalling

[318i 1985]

Any thoughts on this latest diagnostic issue.

The weather here in New England hasn't been cold by any means but when I start the car in the morning or after my commute to work in the afternoon, the car turns right over the RMPs rev to about 2300 then drop down to idle, then below idle and stall. I repeat turning the car over, watch the rpms rise again and fall to a stall, however if I give the car gas I can keep the engine going and then after about 15 seconds the car is fine. No stalling issues on the road after the fact it seems only to be when I'm starting the car after it has sat for a few hours.

Are there sensors in 85 318i's that monitor fuel mixture?, O2 levels ect? Why would it be only when I'm starting the car or the first time? The cars idle does not loop or pulse besides this issue it runs without a problem. Sorry for drowning on just trying to describe it as best as possible.

 

[Doughnut]

This problem is related to your cold start valve, from the description that you give I think its this part. mounted on you inlet manuifold with two wire going to it.

good luck sorry about the lateness.

 

[318i 1985]

Thanks. I read squibs post closer after posting this and realized that more than likely was the issue. The part looks like it runs about $130.00 on the web....easy enough to install on your own? Is this part a quick swap out with minimal labor?

 

[Doughnut]

Is this part a quick swap out with minimal labor?

No worries
Yep, screew driver to remove the fuel hose, and and allen key wrench to remove 2x bolts, quick and easy swap, do it yourself!
Ouch, $130.00 for the part, have you tryed the wreckers first?

Peace.

 

[N5582H]

I had that problem with my 89, 325i and it was the idle control valve (not sure if that is the same valve you guys are talking about). Got it on eBay for $12. It took all of 2 minutes to replace and the car has worked fine ever since. Hope that helps.

Steve

 

[hoh]

I'm probably not the one to answer this , due to my limited knowlage ...but it soundslike something I WAS JUST READING ABOUT ON THis web site http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/JF-Tech/BMW_E30_3_Series_Idle_speed_troubleshooting.htm
...if you read allof the way down youl see somethong like this....
if anything at all it should help to gain a better understanding...HOH

" Now before we begin to re-install the boot and other items, we will need to check the throttle switch on the bottom of the throttle body. This switch is used to control the idle control valve. If this switch has a fault, it will cause the idle control valve to operate incorrectly. In order to test the switch, first remove the electrical connector from the switch. Just push down on the metal wire, and pull it off. Inside you will see three terminals. From the left, they are numbered 2 then 18 then 3. First, connect a digital multimeter between terminals 2 and 18. Now open the throttle halfway and slowly let it close. When it is between 0.20 and 0.60mm from it’s stop, check for continuity between the terminals. Now, connect the multimeter between terminals 3 and 18. Now open the throttle slowly. Check for continuity when the throttle switch is within 10 degrees of being fully open. If you don’t see continuity while testing the terminals, loosen the screws on the bottom of the switch, and adjust the switch until it comes within these values. If you still do not have continuity, this means that the switch is bad and must be replaced. Pelican can provide you with this switch if needed. If the switch is good, re-connect the connector onto the switch.

Once you have tested the throttle switch, the next step is to test the idle control valve.
"