Dropping Rear Axle Carrier - how to

[underDAWG]

I can drop the real axle carrier. I got drive shaft off, shocks, sway bar link and the bolts that holding the carrier. Anyone know what else? TIA.

Later,

 

[xLibelle]

i suspect that you are talking about the subframe. inorder to get that to drop out, you need to take the interior in the back out in order to get to the subframe bushing bolts.

otherwise, im not sure what you mean... there really isnt an axle carrier, much less a single axle in the e30.

 

[underDAWG]

That is what Bentley Manual referred to (Section 13, Page 5, Figure 1-2) .

I took the rear seat off and to see if there is a bolt? But it seals up. . Any other suggestions?

LAter,

 

[Ben]

What exactly are you trying to do?

 

[underDAWG]

I am trying to change all the bushings, and installing new springs and shocks. I have this 325E for more than 18 years and time to spend some money on this baby. After all this, I will repaint it to restore to original shine.

Later,

 

[underDAWG]

Anyone around here do any work themselves besides just changing oil I still can't drop the subframe, even a BFH is not able to do the job

Later,

 

[xLibelle]

*xLibelle takes another look at the book to refresh memory....*


You say you remved the two bolts on each side. Then, in that area, INSIDE the car under the rear seat is a pin. (Sorry i called it a bolt before) From underneath, you have to punch that pin up into the cabin. Once pushed up, the carrier will drop out, so you have to support it before doing so.

 

[underDAWG]

I finally got the subframe off the vehicle. After punched the long bolts out, the subframe was still attached the body firmly. I needed to take off the diff and finally everything dropped off.

With a 12 ton press, I could not get the bushing off. I finally used heat to pop it off. I really didn't want to do that, but.......... . I am going to sandblast the subframe this weekend and paint with POR15. It looks like the BWM is going to sitting on the jack stands for awhile.

Later,

 

[epj3]

I was about to suggest getting the dealer to do it... they can do it for around $250.

 

[underDAWG]

I was about to suggest getting the dealer to do it... they can do it for around $250.

My BMW hasn't been in the dealer for the last ten years. . Working on car/Jeep is my passion and part of my psycho therapy . It is hard to find a dealer can do as thorough job as oneself and still makes a profit. I take my time and do it right the first time .

Later,

 

[Ben]

Anyone around here do any work themselves besides just changing oil I still can't drop the subframe, even a BFH is not able to do the job

Later,

hehehe. I can tell you exactly how to do an engine swap, (make sure you have the right flywheel) rebuild the front end, fix deer damage, brakes, all sorts of crazy electrical work. just about everything ive done to my car. (well, the engine will be done this weekend)

 

[epj3]

My BMW hasn't been in the dealer for the last ten years. . Working on car/Jeep is my passion and part of my psycho therapy . It is hard to find a dealer can do as thorough job as oneself and still makes a profit. I take my time and do it right the first time .

Later,

Trust me -- I've never taken my car to the dealer either. Replaced the flex disc, center bearing, took off and reinstalled the exhaust, have done multiple valve adjustments (damn ticking...), replaced steering rack and control arms, and replaced my shocks and springs all around. I definitely am against spending money when I don't have to... but for a driveway mechanic, to me it's just not doable.

 

[underDAWG]

Trust me -- I've never taken my car to the dealer either.

Hehehe.

Talking about the flex disc, do you have a vibration damper on yours. How did you get your flex disc off. I can't get mine off becasue the dampler is in the way. I haven't figure out yet TIA.

Later,

 

[epj3]

That was not easy, but after I figured it out it wasn't too bad. I wish I would have published a do it yourself for it to help others out.

Remember to mark, with whiteout or paint or something, the driveshaft before and after the guibo. They must be lined up exactly the same when put back on or you will have a driveshaft that broke and spun through the floor board and fell off through the exhasut... not something you want. Or it can destroy the transmissoin and final drive -- again, something you do NOT want.

This is assuming you already have the exhaust removed or out of the way somehow. You have to remove the 3 bolts that hold the guibo to the output flange of the tranny first. These also hold on the vibration dampener. You must then loosen the nut holding the expansion joint between the 2 sections of driveshaft. I then just pushed and pulled for about 10 minutes trying to get the driveshaft off the transmission flange, and lo and behold I finally got the driveshaft to be 'shorter' by pressing it down towards the differential (It got shorter via the expansion joint between the two sections). Then you can remove the front half of the driveshaft by removing the bolts holding on the center bearing and then just pulling.

Do not, don't let the driveshaft support it's own weight. You'll be replacing some expensive U-joints if you do... if not the entire driveshaft ($800+)