Anyone out there ever experience a cracked block with a 2.5L? I have oil in the coolant. The head's off, and while there's some evidence of overheating, there's no visual blow-by between the oil and water passages. The head had about .009" of warp, but cam spins freely. It all started with a seeping water pump.
E30 Oil in the Coolant
- Thread starter tjglakas
- Start date
Whats the pressure like throughout all cylinders?
I don't have "on field" experience with the 2.5, though i do know they are pritty strong blocks to begin with (I'm sure others will chime in)
If you still have good compression, have the head shaved, change your HG and slap the head back on, - don't worry about it.
Peace, and welcome to the forum.
I don't have "on field" experience with the 2.5, though i do know they are pritty strong blocks to begin with (I'm sure others will chime in)
If you still have good compression, have the head shaved, change your HG and slap the head back on, - don't worry about it.
Peace, and welcome to the forum.
ah, oil in the water... takes me back to my days living with a 500,000+km 325e. Those were the good old days. I enjoyed those days more than the later days with the oil in the combustion chamber (piston rings create drag anyways).... and I'll never forget the early years with the power steering fluid in the brake lines. Damn I miss the good times! It almost seems like it was only last fall when I put coolant in the washer fluid reservoir.... I'm not even joking.
Head's shaved and reinstalled. Even put coolant in the water bottle this time 
My book says to torque the torx head bolts to 22 ft/lbs, then go around again and turn an additional 90 degrees, then 90 degrees again. No final torque is specified. I'd like to retorque the head after a few miles. Does anyone out there have a firm torque spec for torx bolts or other recommendation?
Engine runs well now, but I'm still seeing some oil in the coolant, and some in the oil after about 20 miles of driving. I flushed both oil and coolant once and am hoping it's just residual. Thoughts???
My book says to torque the torx head bolts to 22 ft/lbs, then go around again and turn an additional 90 degrees, then 90 degrees again. No final torque is specified. I'd like to retorque the head after a few miles. Does anyone out there have a firm torque spec for torx bolts or other recommendation?
Engine runs well now, but I'm still seeing some oil in the coolant, and some in the oil after about 20 miles of driving. I flushed both oil and coolant once and am hoping it's just residual. Thoughts???
![[:(]](/images/smilies/frown.png "Frown [:(]")
Head's shaved and reinstalled. Even put coolant in the water bottle this time
My book says to torque the torx head bolts to 22 ft/lbs, then go around again and turn an additional 90 degrees, then 90 degrees again. No final torque is specified. I'd like to retorque the head after a few miles. Does anyone out there have a firm torque spec for torx bolts or other recommendation?
Engine runs well now, but I'm still seeing some oil in the coolant, and some in the oil after about 20 miles of driving. I flushed both oil and coolant once and am hoping it's just residual. Thoughts???
My book says to torque the torx head bolts to 22 ft/lbs, then go around again and turn an additional 90 degrees, then 90 degrees again. No final torque is specified. I'd like to retorque the head after a few miles. Does anyone out there have a firm torque spec for torx bolts or other recommendation?
Engine runs well now, but I'm still seeing some oil in the coolant, and some in the oil after about 20 miles of driving. I flushed both oil and coolant once and am hoping it's just residual. Thoughts???
If not I'd nip em' um a bit tighter after the final 90 degrees.
I'm hoping for your sake that there was just a bit more contaminated oil at the top/bottom of the block
![[mad]](/images/smilies/mad.png "Mad [mad]")