over heated 525i

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#1
first off its a 1995 525i. (my sis's car) it has a problem overheating, it was leaking anti freeze from the radiator so i replaced that, now it has a problem when it just keeps getting very hot after a while of driving ( 15 min - 30min) i touched the radiator after it go to the red and it was reallly really hot, so i have the feeling its a thermostat problem but the heater also doesnt work i dont know if that has to do with the termostat problem :\. also im not sure if i bled the coolent system right if some one could explain how that would be much appreciated. Thanks
 

epj3

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#2
If the radiator is getting hot, the thermostat is doing its job (or, even if it did fail, it failed open). So the thermostat isn't the problem.

Non-working heater and overheating motor mean there is air in the system. Basically fill up the tank of the radiator to the fill line, then start the car with the heater on full-hot. I believe the M50 has a bleeder screw next to the cap. Little shitty plastic screw (go figure!). Just let it out, then when coolant starts coming out put it back in. Just dont burn yourself and keep paper towels around.
 
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#3
overheating 525i

It sounds to me like it could be a broken impeller inside your waterpump. They are made of plastic and when they age, the center breaks off the shaft resulting in no water circulation. If it hasn't been changed, you might consider changing anyway as routine maintenance. If it is broken and not replaced soon, it will break into small pieces and then you'll have a bigger problem.
 
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#4
If the water pump was broken in any way, the radiator would not be hot. The only reasonable explanation is what Eric said. If the thermostat is gone, you'd get heat and the rad would be cold, if the water pump is gone, the rad would be cold, if the fan clutch is gone you'd get heat, the rad would be hot and the AUX fan would be coming on periodically to cool the rad. There could be a leak somewhere that would introduce air bubbles into the system but it doesn't seam like its anything other then bubbles.
 
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#5
Sounds like what mine was doing when the bleeder on the radiator was broken. My dad and I was trying to bleed it, and burning hot antifreeze and water burst from the radiator like a volcano, causing us to run away from the car, right in front of an oncoming minvan. It was a fun and exciting adventure.
 

epj3

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#6
foomonkey525i said:
Sounds like what mine was doing when the bleeder on the radiator was broken. My dad and I was trying to bleed it, and burning hot antifreeze and water burst from the radiator like a volcano, causing us to run away from the car, right in front of an oncoming minvan. It was a fun and exciting adventure.
Hahahahah this post had me laughing pretty damn hard [:D] [:D] [rofl] [rofl] [rofl] [rofl]
 
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#7
alright thanks all,

ive noticed somthing tho, when i am warming or after it is warm the car up the hose on the side opposite of the filler is not hot at all, accually kinda cold when the other side is really hot what could cause this, broken or weakend water pump maybe some blades broke off? still having the problem too, god bleading is a bitch!
 
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#8
yeah never mind about that hose comment i just thought about it, lol but im have trouble bleading, when ever i start to blead it the radiator starts making this bubbling noise is that normal?
 
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#9
man f it, im just going to take it to some place and have them flush it and fill it, i found a coupon for free coolant fill and flush with the purchase of coolant so thanks everyone im just tired of my sister bugging me about fixing and ****ing bleading god its so annoying.
 
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#10
Haha, I hear ya, I hate bleading the cooling system. I've been having problems with it for a while now and had to bleed it quite a few times and I still can't figure out how to properly blead the damn thing. A few days ago, after replacing the heater core, I tried to bleed it and after a while of standing there, waiting for more bubles to come up, coolant just started pouring out of the expansion tank and the bleader valve, probably lost about a quarter of a gallon right there. I so wish there was an easier way.
 
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#12
lol yeah i hate it anyways it ended up being a stuck valve in the heater core or somthing like that is only cost about 40 dollars to fix i probably would have spent that in coolent if i would have kept trying to blead the damn thing lol
 
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#13
Actually, I remember I just flushed and refilled mine when I replaced the water pump, and bleading it wasn't much of a problem at all.

If you want a pain, try bleading the clutch. I did that last night. Apparently, you're supposed to have a pressure bleader or something? Oh well. We didn't. But, I got the slave cylinder replaced, and after much frustrated fiddling, we got it bled, and now my clutch is much, much smoother. And it doesn't leak brake fluid all over the place.

Which reminds me, I keep forgetting to record that in my maintenance log.
 
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#14
epj3 said:
Easier way? Get an M30! [rofl]

How hard was the heater core? Mine leaks a little so that's an up-and-coming repair.
The heater core wasn't hard to replace at all, then again, I took the whole interior apart before (well, except for taking the dash itself out) so that probably had something to do with it being kinda easy. I got to it in probably about 2 hours or so, seamed really fast and then it took me about 3 hours to replace the damn thing. Beware, when you actually get to it, you have to unscrew this bracket that holds the pipes in place and then you have to pull those pipes out, they go almost a good inch inside the heater core itself so keep yanking on them until you can pretty much move them around with no problem. Its all downhill from there, just try not to leave some parts till the end or you might have to go back because of a small screw you can't get to or the like.

Good luck whenever youre going to do it.
 
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#15
foomonkey525i said:
Actually, I remember I just flushed and refilled mine when I replaced the water pump, and bleading it wasn't much of a problem at all.

If you want a pain, try bleading the clutch. I did that last night. Apparently, you're supposed to have a pressure bleader or something? Oh well. We didn't. But, I got the slave cylinder replaced, and after much frustrated fiddling, we got it bled, and now my clutch is much, much smoother. And it doesn't leak brake fluid all over the place.

Which reminds me, I keep forgetting to record that in my maintenance log.
Yeah i think mine was so hard because i kept thinking it needed bled more b/c it was still overheating and accually it was a diff problem
 

epj3

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#16
nadroj said:
Yeah i think mine was so hard because i kept thinking it needed bled more b/c it was still overheating and accually it was a diff problem
WAAAAH you're all cryin about bleeding!! Hahahah, it took me 10 minutes and one try to bleed the m30. You and your dohc hydraulic lifter junk motors!!!!! [scream] [rofl]


(m50 is a great motor, just kidding around [unsure] [rofl] [???1] sorry I am very tired! I'm starting to sound like stitch [screwy] [confused])
 
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#17
epj3 said:
WAAAAH you're all cryin about bleeding!! Hahahah, it took me 10 minutes and one try to bleed the m30. You and your dohc hydraulic lifter junk motors!!!!! [scream] [rofl]


(m50 is a great motor, just kidding around [unsure] [rofl] [???1] sorry I am very tired! I'm starting to sound like stitch [screwy] [confused])
lol its a great motor but its slower than yours!!!! lol, god the 525i is so slow, but that maybe b.c im comparing it to my m3 [;)]
 
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#20
I find that when bleeding the cooling system it works best if you have the front of the car, ie, the bleed port as high as possible. Like parked upslope or on jackstands.
 


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