i'm a new owner of a bmw e28 (old eh?). it seems the car as a few electrical problems as well i can't seem to locate the overflow bottle for the coolant. i'm trying to understand the car. the onboard computer doesn't work, neither do the speedometer and sometimes the tachometer. any tips would be helpful
problems getting oriented
- Thread starter roadrunrx
- Start date
E28 are fun
Here is a picture of an e28 coolant tank, it is on the drivers inner fender liner.
The speedometer is electronic and usually it is a connector on the aft face of the differential where the sensor is located.
The Tachometer is different.
The sensor is on the flywheel and the suspect connector is on the aft intake brace.
There are two and do not cross them. The other gives reference of the engine position to the ECU.
You can use wd40 on all connectors.
Here is a diagram of an e24 OBC so the fuses are different but everything else is the same.
http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/etm124.htm
Later,
Here is a picture of an e28 coolant tank, it is on the drivers inner fender liner.
The speedometer is electronic and usually it is a connector on the aft face of the differential where the sensor is located.
The Tachometer is different.
The sensor is on the flywheel and the suspect connector is on the aft intake brace.
There are two and do not cross them. The other gives reference of the engine position to the ECU.
You can use wd40 on all connectors.
Here is a diagram of an e24 OBC so the fuses are different but everything else is the same.
http://members.roadfly.com/kcroncarter/etm124.htm
Later,
The SI can hose the cluster also
BMW added a SI, Service Interval, indicator to the car.
It is the series of lights to tell you when to change oil and get the car serviced.
If it fails to reset it needs new batteries and can affect gauge operation in the cluster also.
If the lights are on and will not reset you have to fix them.
SI reset and batteries
With the ignition switch at (position two) and the engine not running, grounding pin seven #7 of the diagnostic connector to pin one #1 for approximately three (3) seconds will reset the oil service lights. Grounding pin seven #7 to pin one #1 for approximately twelve (12) seconds will do an inspection service reset.
More information.
http://www.specialistcarsbmw.co.uk/stevenage/service/service_lights.htm
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif
1. Ground
4. Temperature sensor
7. Reset
8. TDC sensor yellow
9. TDC sensor shield
10.TDC sensor black
11.Start signal
12.Alternator charging excitation voltage
13.Ignition coil
14.Alternator charging supply current
15.Oxygen Heater
It will signal an oil change need between 5k and 7k depending on your indicated speed since the last reset. It will signal stealer inspections at all the predesignated miles.
http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html
SI Board Swap Out
Last but not least - the SI Board. Above is a new SI Board with lithium batteries and below is the old one. Note the blown battery on the old SI Board (green circle). The light blue rectangle shows the actual service indicator LED's which appear on your dash display. These LED's are mounted on a separate circuit board which must be pulled out of the old SI Board and plugged into the new one. This is an easy task. The purple arrow shows the orientation of the SI Board relative to the driver.
If it fails to reset then you need batteries.
Varta battery 500RST OE part.
Radio Shack: part number 23-191: $6.49 for set of two; they come w/solder tabs on them.
1.2 volts / 700mAh
Charge fully B4 installation on SI board.
Consider mounting batteries "remotely" under dash, etc. in separate holder for easy removal in future (i.e. not pulling the console out and apart); you can buy a plastic holder at RS. Run leadwires from holder to SI board connections. Makes life easy if you ever need to replace batteries again.
From Radio Shack, get:
1) You'll need a twin AA battery holder ($3)
2) 2 AA NiCAD rechargeable batteries ($6)
Later,
BMW added a SI, Service Interval, indicator to the car.
It is the series of lights to tell you when to change oil and get the car serviced.
If it fails to reset it needs new batteries and can affect gauge operation in the cluster also.
If the lights are on and will not reset you have to fix them.
SI reset and batteries
With the ignition switch at (position two) and the engine not running, grounding pin seven #7 of the diagnostic connector to pin one #1 for approximately three (3) seconds will reset the oil service lights. Grounding pin seven #7 to pin one #1 for approximately twelve (12) seconds will do an inspection service reset.
More information.
http://www.specialistcarsbmw.co.uk/stevenage/service/service_lights.htm
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif
1. Ground
4. Temperature sensor
7. Reset
8. TDC sensor yellow
9. TDC sensor shield
10.TDC sensor black
11.Start signal
12.Alternator charging excitation voltage
13.Ignition coil
14.Alternator charging supply current
15.Oxygen Heater
It will signal an oil change need between 5k and 7k depending on your indicated speed since the last reset. It will signal stealer inspections at all the predesignated miles.
http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html
SI Board Swap Out
Last but not least - the SI Board. Above is a new SI Board with lithium batteries and below is the old one. Note the blown battery on the old SI Board (green circle). The light blue rectangle shows the actual service indicator LED's which appear on your dash display. These LED's are mounted on a separate circuit board which must be pulled out of the old SI Board and plugged into the new one. This is an easy task. The purple arrow shows the orientation of the SI Board relative to the driver.
If it fails to reset then you need batteries.
Varta battery 500RST OE part.
Radio Shack: part number 23-191: $6.49 for set of two; they come w/solder tabs on them.
1.2 volts / 700mAh
Charge fully B4 installation on SI board.
Consider mounting batteries "remotely" under dash, etc. in separate holder for easy removal in future (i.e. not pulling the console out and apart); you can buy a plastic holder at RS. Run leadwires from holder to SI board connections. Makes life easy if you ever need to replace batteries again.
From Radio Shack, get:
1) You'll need a twin AA battery holder ($3)
2) 2 AA NiCAD rechargeable batteries ($6)
Later,