Ok so the new thermostat is finally in!
Here's how i did it - this might help some of you blokes later on:
1. Removed studs from the top of the fan cowling and pulled it out.
2. Removed fan with an open-ended 32mm spanner (you need this). The bolt that holds the fan on is a left-hand thread, for obvious reasons.
3. Undid both jublee clips holding rad hoses onto the thermostat housing.
4. Drained excess coolant (this was a LOT)
5. Removed cam sensor with 5mm allen key. This needs to be done so that the housing can come out.
6. Removed thermostat housing by undoing 4 bolts: two on top, two below. The two below are hard to get at so this takes time. Hint: a socket and spanner set is essential.
7. Pulled out old thermostat and scraped the holding face clean of the old gasket - which was rotting and broken - with an old chisel. This works really well but be careful not to pit the metal with the chisel as it is quite soft.
8. Filed thermostat housing face down so it was nice and smooth and clean. Again, use a fine file as the housing is aluminium and therefore soft.
9. Applied gasket glue to gasket and thermostat housing for extra safety.
10. Placed thermostat into the casing and then, with two bolts already through it at diagonals, positioned the casing into the engine itself. This means it will be recessed into block slightly.
11. Tighten all bolts in symettry so that gasket isnt broken.
12. Replace cam sensor and tighten with allen key.
13. Replace rad hoses.
14. Replace fan (this is important![[hihi]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_hihi.gif "Hi Hi [hihi]")
)
15. Replace fan cowling.
16. Hose engine to remove excess coolant as this can attack the paint. I used petrol too so that i could really clean all the grease and muck off my engine!!
17. Fill expansion tank with water and start car. Leave rad cap off for the moment.
18. Let car idle until working at operating temp. Water level in radiator should lower so keep brimming it with water. This may take some time.
19. Watch temp gauge is not moving too far towards the red area. Eventually, bubbles will escape from the top of the radiator. This means the air pockets in the engine, esp. around the cylinder head, are expanding with the heat and are being forced out.
20. Take the car for a drive and make sure everything is normal: check that the heater is working in the car as this gets air in it too.
21. Upon returning home check the expansion tank has returned the coolant level to normal and that there are no longer any bubbles.
22. Replenish coolant and check every so often for the first few days (or weeks even)
23. Nail that puppy![headbang]
If you guys have questions i'll be glad to answer them as i know the 318is has a completely different thermostat arrangement. Cheers.
Here's how i did it - this might help some of you blokes later on:
1. Removed studs from the top of the fan cowling and pulled it out.
2. Removed fan with an open-ended 32mm spanner (you need this). The bolt that holds the fan on is a left-hand thread, for obvious reasons.
3. Undid both jublee clips holding rad hoses onto the thermostat housing.
4. Drained excess coolant (this was a LOT)
5. Removed cam sensor with 5mm allen key. This needs to be done so that the housing can come out.
6. Removed thermostat housing by undoing 4 bolts: two on top, two below. The two below are hard to get at so this takes time. Hint: a socket and spanner set is essential.
7. Pulled out old thermostat and scraped the holding face clean of the old gasket - which was rotting and broken - with an old chisel. This works really well but be careful not to pit the metal with the chisel as it is quite soft.
8. Filed thermostat housing face down so it was nice and smooth and clean. Again, use a fine file as the housing is aluminium and therefore soft.
9. Applied gasket glue to gasket and thermostat housing for extra safety.
10. Placed thermostat into the casing and then, with two bolts already through it at diagonals, positioned the casing into the engine itself. This means it will be recessed into block slightly.
11. Tighten all bolts in symettry so that gasket isnt broken.
12. Replace cam sensor and tighten with allen key.
13. Replace rad hoses.
14. Replace fan (this is important
)15. Replace fan cowling.
16. Hose engine to remove excess coolant as this can attack the paint. I used petrol too so that i could really clean all the grease and muck off my engine!!
17. Fill expansion tank with water and start car. Leave rad cap off for the moment.
18. Let car idle until working at operating temp. Water level in radiator should lower so keep brimming it with water. This may take some time.
19. Watch temp gauge is not moving too far towards the red area. Eventually, bubbles will escape from the top of the radiator. This means the air pockets in the engine, esp. around the cylinder head, are expanding with the heat and are being forced out.
20. Take the car for a drive and make sure everything is normal: check that the heater is working in the car as this gets air in it too.
21. Upon returning home check the expansion tank has returned the coolant level to normal and that there are no longer any bubbles.
22. Replenish coolant and check every so often for the first few days (or weeks even)
23. Nail that puppy![headbang]
If you guys have questions i'll be glad to answer them as i know the 318is has a completely different thermostat arrangement. Cheers.