Trailing Arm Bush Failure?

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#1
Trailing Arm Bush Failure?

What are the sympthons?

MY search on the net reveals the following:-

"Trailing arm bushes will make the back end feel as if it is stepping out while hitting bumps round corners."

"Yes the training arm bushes links the suspension arm to the body. If it goes then the rear wheels move about when cornering and going over bumps. You can feel it when hitting bumps when going round corners and tyre wear increases significantly and unevenly."

"A loud knocking from the rear, some times combined with the feeling of rear wheel stearing would suggest trailing arm bushes ( they go about 60-80,000 miles)."

"Work done today on my e36 involved both rear tracking arm bushes, one had worn so badly, this was causing loud knocking, this was also causing the rear end to jump about when going over bumps or potholes. This seems to have also caused excessive wear on the tyres, glad I didnt have alignment checked for them to tell me the bushes had gone. "

"My '86 535i is getting a dull clunking noise from the rear end on
upshifts, esp. 1st to 2nd. At times I swear you can feel something
shift around back there. The Bentley manual is a little vauge on
troubleshooting the rear suspension.... after going through the
checklist it looked like the trailing arm bushings were suspect."

"I've got an intermittent clunking/creaking sound from the rear left
side of my UK 89 320i whenever I take off and shift between 1st and 3rd gear. I say intermittent because jacking the car up on that side seems to stop the problem for a few days only for it to recur. Replacing the rear shocks and mounts hasn't solved the problem (although the car handles much better). Any ideas what the problem may be? On my E36 this was the trailing arm bushings."

"Clunk Sound at Rear When Letting Off Gas Pedal.
I had a similar problem but when I was accelerating
from dead stop. It was the trailing arm bushing."

What do you guys think ......anybody change their trailing arm bush and if so why?
 
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#2
Maintenance

Not yet but soon. I'm just going to drop the subframe on my '85 325e and rebuild the whole thing. I purchaced urethane control arm bushings (harder) and have everything else required to do this rebuild. Now if the 100+ degree days would let up......

Why I'm doing this rebuild? The first clue something was wrongs is. I can hear a clicking noise similar to ring & pinion backlash when letting the clutch out starting out or shifting easy while driving. Exit and entrance ramps taken at brisk speeds, I can feel some rear-steer. So far I haven't noticed any uneven tire wear, hard Sumitomo's.

I pressure wash the under-side in the spring to wash salt away. When jack stands are placed under the subframe and the weight of the car is set on them, I noticed the rubber was 90% gone around the subframe bolts. Inspecting the control arm bushings, I could see they were starting to deteriorate as well. CV joint boost, swaybar bushings....lets face it, the car has 240 thousand miles on it plus the car is 18 years old. Every rubber bushing needs replaced. It's service life has been used up, what more can a person ask of it?

To put this simply. It's regular maintenance. When it's time to replace worn parts, a quick look will confirm the obvious. Yes there are some signs while driving that should trigger concern, that should lead to a visual inspection and then a phone call to the parts store or the local service person to schedule an appointment.
 
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#3
what about clunking sound.....esp when you slow down or come to an abrupt stop.

I have changed the subframe bushing....lots of improvement but i still get some clunking noe and then.
 
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#5
Subframe Bushings

Local shops want $400.00 just to replace the subframe bushings. Not sure what control arm bushings would cost to replace.

My plan is to remove the whole subframe, glass bead it and the control arms with #1 grade bead w/50psi air pressure (low) zink primer & paint with enamel.

As for other cluncks & knocks. Could be sway bar bushings are gone. A story in Roundel comes to mind. The newer models had subframe trouble. The lady said the whole rear end of the car came loose, the car was a total loss as it wasn't repairable. I don't know about this not being repairable but if it were my car, I'd have figured some way of welding in thick washers to locate the subframe bolts. Anyway, it's best to lift the car & set it on jack stands. Get comfortable on the creeper while examining all the rubber bushings. Check the differential for backlash, should just barely have any play between the ring & pinion teeth. Never heard of problems in this area unless a inner axle seal leaked real bad. No grease, lots of wear. U-joint? there's no way to give it a shot of grease. When I did the transmission, I repacked the rear joint. The driveshaft runs fairly true so the U-joints have an easy life. They do wear out though and it's not suppose to be rebuildable but people do rebuild them (replace the U-joints with non BMW units gasp) One other thing you might check while your under there. Grab the exhaust & move it around, maybe a band has stretched or come off and the pipe or muffler is hitting somewhere. Not really much else under there to bang around....
 


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