Upgrade to Xenon

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#1
'97 Upgrade to Xenon

Basically the driver's side headlamp bucket is shot - no adjustment peices are intact.
So, I figure I'll upgrade the 5 to Xenons.

First, is the BAVAUTO supposed "Plug-n-play" kit true?? I'd read on some sites that some reprogramming would have to be done for onboard diagnostic sensors to function properly.

BAV:


I'd LOVE to have auto-levels, but the $1500 for the above sounds about as much as I'd like to spend, as I'll probably be clearing the rear lenses and sidemarkers too.
 
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#2
Usually they are pretty much "plug and play." I'm not sure about reprogramming, but I can tell you if you're upgrading from Halogen to Xenon with this kit, the average Halogen bulbs draw around 60 watts per bulb and Xenon bulbs draw only 35 watts per bulb so the car will think your headlights are out (thus giving you an warning indidcator in your dash). Based on what I've just said, I'm assuming the reprogramming required is to have the sensors re-adjusted to detect only a 35 watt presence rather than a 60 watt presence. I think you could resolve this the cheap way and just get some transistor or something (am I even saying the right thing here??) and attach it to the sensors to override the sensors to make them think the bulbs are on and working fine. But if you go with this cheap route and then if one of the bulbs are actually out, the car will no longer tell you (although it's pretty obvious when you have a headlight out). I'm sorry, I'm just not good when it comes to ELECTRICITY, lol.


Dude your M3 is hot.
 

adrean8j

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#3
I was reading on an earlier thread that the BMW computer would have to be programmed to "know" that you have xenon headlights so you wouldnt get that little alarm. I dont know how much it costs or what it entails. If i can find the posts I will let you know.
 
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#5
Good info, thanks.

Montana said:
All of my headlamp adjusters were broken...cheap plastic that disintegrates over time/heat. Here is the fix if you want. It will take about $30 and 2-3 hours labor. I did mine. A pain in the ass but i had too. I had saggy, bouncy lights.

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/...ustment-fix.htm
Excellent site, thanks. I had never stumbled upon that one.
I think I'll still call Bavarian and see if their kit has resistors installed...I'd much rather bolt-in a complete setup. I would imagine since it's more $$ than others I've seen they may have addressed the issue.

You anywhere near Tampa?
 
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#10
MrElussive said:
Why don't you just get a G-Tech Pro for $40? $75 a session on a dyno could go towards a new mod for even more power.....
SERIOUS?? G-Tech's are almost as accurate as counting 1-mississippi...

There are many fooled individuals running around thinking they can run 13 flat.

There's ONE true measure...the track. Then find out how hard it is to hit 13.5 in the quarter.

Montana, whenever you want to run down to Bradenton, let me know.

This was my 13.8 @4000 RPM launch, bounced off rev limiter in 2nd, AND mis-shifted 3rd.
I've got about 5 of my 8 runs on video from that day, best in 100 degree weather was 13.67
 
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#11
MadMacs said:
...I'd read on some sites that some reprogramming would have to be done for onboard diagnostic sensors to function properly.
The fault code doesn’t come up on every car for some reason. When I bought my car it already had the Xenons installed, unfortunately mine had the fault. When I took it to the “stealer” for a clutch replacement, they told me that they couldn’t change the Xenon setup. After some research I called Bekkers and bought relays for $75 a piece and they work fine.
 
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#12
I figure since I'd upgrade from Halo's to Xenon's, I'd more than likely get the error.

I went ahead and emailed to find out:

"Our kit does not address the warning light that you may get but
we sell some additional parts that will take care of the warning light
issue.

Catalog # Description Price
[87705 ] E39 H/L RESISTOR PACK- 74.95 each - 2 required

Bavarian Autosport "

For me, it might work, I don't care for messing with soldering and splicing.
 
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#13
Yeah I've seen ads for the stick-on 0-60 monitors and such. I'm a little skeptical of the accuracy so I'd prefer a dyno for a baseline. I'm admittedly ignorant about the accuracy and electronics of the G-force meters but the physics makes sense given the right weight input etc. I'll have to edu-macate myself further for that as a long term measure.

In the meantime, I'm up for a run at a drag strip after I make my mods. Only replacing one Cat and replacing the CDV in the clutch with a modified one to make it "non-effective". As of now, when I turn off traction control and do a hot run from start, the clutch will not engage fully under power and hard shifting and it is burning it up..all the way into 3rd gear. I could smell it when I pulled into my garage AND I feel the difference already in the clutch play.

Also I'm up for autocross. I haven't done that since my buddy and I went to Fulton County Stadium parking lot 3 years ago with my Infinity i30t FWD and his RX7. It was a blast switching runs on such different cars!!!
 
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#14
Address the clutch before launching @ strip!!!

Montana said:
I'm up for a run at a drag strip after I make my mods.
Sounds like a new clutch should be in the mod list.
You have any repair history on the car, maybe where it was serviced or anything?
Passes down a well dressed track surface could kill the clutch (long tow home).
 
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#15
Yeah I know the repair history and I don't hink the clutch has been touched. When I bought it, it was nice and firm. After 1 particular hot run, the clutch is now noticeably softer. That sucks. I'm spending about $1k to replace one of the Cat converters so not looking forward to shelling out for a clutch yet. Maybe hold off on the track until then too.
 


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