Wayne, question about using 1Z on tuff swirls/scrathches

[Malachi]

I recently did a '98 Black MB that had a lot of swirls and scratches caused by toweling over a 5 year period.

I was not able to get them all out using a 7336/EPP (yellow can)/cutting pad. The advise I got was that I could be very agressive with that combo and work the product in for a while without fear.

I just want to make sure that I can attack it this way because if I get another shot at that car, I don't want to fail and leave those marks again.

Another option that I see suggested is to stay with PP and work the area multiple times. I just don't think that is going to work on this car.

Using a 7336, how long should you work in EPP/PP?

 

[waynestowels]

The Ultra polish is quite abrasive...,
I work it in until it begins to flash, then remove at that time.
To remove the small swirls left behind, I recommend going back over with a polishing pad or finishing pad using the "red can" (Metallic Polish)

It is advisable to start off with a less aggressive polish first..., I could not imagine needing anything stronger than the "green can".
I detailed a MB a couple of weeks ago using the green can with my rotary and finished up with the red can using my DW443(more speed and power than the PC), then Glanz for the protectant.

The car came in VERY ROUGH and left looking new a few hours later..., never had to use te yellow can when using a rotary.

Do you think it is possible you are not working in the polish, completely breaking down the abrasives(they are "diminishing abrasives..., the longer you work it, the smaller they get, then turns into a fine polish

 

[Malachi]

The Ultra polish is quite abrasive...,
I work it in until it begins to flash, then remove at that time.
To remove the small swirls left behind, I recommend going back over with a polishing pad or finishing pad using the "red can" (Metallic Polish)

It is advisable to start off with a less aggressive polish first..., I could not imagine needing anything stronger than the "green can".
I detailed a MB a couple of weeks ago using the green can with my rotary and finished up with the red can using my DW443(more speed and power than the PC), then Glanz for the protectant.

The car came in VERY ROUGH and left looking new a few hours later..., never had to use te yellow can when using a rotary.

Do you think it is possible you are not working in the polish, completely breaking down the abrasives(they are "diminishing abrasives..., the longer you work it, the smaller they get, then turns into a fine polish

I did start with the PP with a white pad, then orange, then yellow before I went to EPP with the yellow/cutting pad.

Can you tell me more about how much to work the product ("completely breaking down")? I am thinking I did not. I thought that was an issue with #82&#83 and not with the 1Z products.

 

[waynestowels]

I work it down until it starts to flash, then remove with a "MF" towel.
Work one "small section" at a time.
If using an orbital is not "cutting it", you "may" have to step up to a rotaty for speed.
A RO maching can only do do much. They can do minor paint correctiond, but they do not have the speed or heat build up like a rotary.

Try this first, speed the maching up, use a little pressure and try one small area.

let me know how that works and we will go from there

 

[Malachi]

Well, I don't know if I will see the car again. Pardon the ignorance, but what do you mean when it starts to flash?

If you can take a picture and send it to me, I wil post it.

BTW, got the towels today. Like I said, this order was more for my neighbors (they saw and tested mine). Looking forward to testing that other drying towel.

 

[waynestowels]

Flashing is the point the polish starts to "dry".
Let me know how you like the "discount towels"..., I have them priced at $9 for $75, shipping included- You save quite a bit on that "package deal

Thank you for your order and continued support!
Wayne

 

[Malachi]

Flashing is the point the polish starts to "dry".
Let me know how you like the "discount towels"..., I have them priced at $9 for $75, shipping included- You save quite a bit on that "package deal

Thank you for your order and continued support!
Wayne

I detailed a friends car this weekend. It was a bit of a bear. Anyway, I wanted to give you some feedback.

1) I followed your advice and really worked the polish in. If the pics are good, I will post them. On the scratches that did not come out during regular polishing using EPP (PC set at 5), I went after it again with the PC set on 6 and applied some pressure. I applied enough pressure where it actually built up some heat and the area with the scratch became very warm. It got the job done

2) Your "not up to standards" towels are really quite good and I consider it your most versatile. I used it this weekend for drying at times, some spot buffing and even on the windows with excellent results

Thanks again for the tips!

 

[Malachi]

I work it down until it starts to flash, then remove with a "MF" towel.
Work one "small section" at a time.
If using an orbital is not "cutting it", you "may" have to step up to a rotaty for speed.
A RO maching can only do do much. They can do minor paint correctiond, but they do not have the speed or heat build up like a rotary.

Try this first, speed the maching up, use a little pressure and try one small area.

let me know how that works and we will go from there

Here is a pic of the condition the car was in.

There are a couple more pics at this link.

 

[waynestowels]

I detailed a friends car this weekend. It was a bit of a bear. Anyway, I wanted to give you some feedback.

1) I followed your advice and really worked the polish in. If the pics are good, I will post them. On the scratches that did not come out during regular polishing using EPP (PC set at 5), I went after it again with the PC set on 6 and applied some pressure. I applied enough pressure where it actually built up some heat and the area with the scratch became very warm. It got the job done

2) Your "not up to standards" towels are really quite good and I consider it your most versatile. I used it this weekend for drying at times, some spot buffing and even on the windows with excellent results

Thanks again for the tips!

Thank you for the update...,
Do you have "after" pics?

 

[Malachi]

Thank you for the update...,
Do you have "after" pics?

No I don't sorry. I made it look a lot better but, I did not get all of the swirls out. Like I wrote before, I hope I get a second shot at this one.

Do you think that a PC is not adequate and it is going to take a rotary?

 

[waynestowels]

A rotary is always best for paint correction, however, with the new Einszett products, all but the worst defects can be improved with a good RO polisher (I recommend the Dewalt DW443 for best results with a RO)

Einszett Paint Polish and Metallic Polish using a RO polisher has worked for me..., however, I am now using a Dewalt DW443, more power and speed than the PC which translates to better paint correction, but still no real chance of burning paint.

Thanks for the update

 

[Malachi]

I have the 7336. Judging from the pics, what do you think of this plan of action?

Using the 7336, applying the EPP and working it in longer with a cutting pad and if that does not work, put on a wool bonnet and trying again?

 

[waynestowels]

From looking at the pics, I would try a light cutting or polishing pad and EPP..., a cutting pad "may" be too much to solve the problem