where can I get a CAI for my 89 iS?
- Thread starter Kilomph
- Start date
Save your time. It won't do anything in an E30 unless you have an aftermarket exhaust, chip, etc.
I'm not sure if you have the same airbox my 88 325is has, but it has a trumpet that pulls ALL the air from behind the headlight which is in front of the radiator - coolest place to get air without something sticking out of the car.
I'm not sure if you have the same airbox my 88 325is has, but it has a trumpet that pulls ALL the air from behind the headlight which is in front of the radiator - coolest place to get air without something sticking out of the car.
Hey mate just on that i'm wondering approximately how much money you have spent on your E30 for those mods...? Do such mods as airboxes, exhausts, chips etc REALLY make much difference? I want to get more power from my baby but if it's a minimal increase then i'd rather keep her completely stock.
Then there's the not insignificant matter of insurance premiums...
Thanks.
Then there's the not insignificant matter of insurance premiums...
Thanks.
Come this spring, i'm going to have CAI, headers, free flow exhaust (not sure which company yet, i just want max hp/tq gain) and most likely a Viper2 chip from that guy on ebay. My friend just bought one from him for his 92 E36, made a big mid/high rpm difference. CAI seemed cheapest and easiest to do, i'd like to get it out of the way. So does anybody know where I can get a CAI for my E30?
Few words of advice:
1. There's a reason the real aftermarket cat-backs are $300+. The stock system itself is already fairly free flow. Just watch out that you don't buy some cheapo exhaust. You'll actually HURT your performance if it's "Too freeflowing". Everyone who knows anything about tuning will tell you that a Naturally Aspirated engine (one with no forced induction) requires a certain amount of back pressure.
2. I've never in my life heard of the "Viper2" chip. The Jim Conforti chip is the best chip for the E30, hands down. People have said the other chips work fine but tend to effect other aspects of the car (IE Lower RPM's, idle, emissions, etc.)
3. Never ever think that the mods that work for an E36 work for the E30... they are completely different. The tuner market for the E36 is much broader. If you want to get more power out of your M20, you're going to have to go with a reputable company, since most others havent spend as much time engineering chips and aftermarket parts for the E30's.
4. Lastly, the reason I posted the "bad" things about a cold air intake on the E30, is becuase 99% of the time you HURT your performance. If you remove that air box and put a cone filter in place, it's going to draw more but much warmer air in - which effectively will do nothing, or again, hurt performance. A general rule of thumb is that every 10 degree's = 1 horsepower. So with the stock airbox, you will be pulling 80 degree air in on a 80 degree day. With a cone filter, you'll be drawing the 150 degree air in from the engine compartment. You'll get better throttle response, BUT you will actually loose a little bit of power. The advantage of the less-resistant cone filter does not offset the disadvantage of drawing warmer air in.
So, how do you get cold air to your engine effectively? The biggest and most popular mod is to remove the drivers side high beam. You can buy metal grates to put over where the lense should be (so it won't be super ugly), and you can get the coolest air possible (obviously ambient temperature).
Hope this helps. If you put a cone filter in place of the air box itself and then a cheapo aftermarket exhaust and cheap chip that wasn't designed by a reputable company... you'll end up having stock 325ix's (all wheel drive = slower) running circles around you.
1. There's a reason the real aftermarket cat-backs are $300+. The stock system itself is already fairly free flow. Just watch out that you don't buy some cheapo exhaust. You'll actually HURT your performance if it's "Too freeflowing". Everyone who knows anything about tuning will tell you that a Naturally Aspirated engine (one with no forced induction) requires a certain amount of back pressure.
2. I've never in my life heard of the "Viper2" chip. The Jim Conforti chip is the best chip for the E30, hands down. People have said the other chips work fine but tend to effect other aspects of the car (IE Lower RPM's, idle, emissions, etc.)
3. Never ever think that the mods that work for an E36 work for the E30... they are completely different. The tuner market for the E36 is much broader. If you want to get more power out of your M20, you're going to have to go with a reputable company, since most others havent spend as much time engineering chips and aftermarket parts for the E30's.
4. Lastly, the reason I posted the "bad" things about a cold air intake on the E30, is becuase 99% of the time you HURT your performance. If you remove that air box and put a cone filter in place, it's going to draw more but much warmer air in - which effectively will do nothing, or again, hurt performance. A general rule of thumb is that every 10 degree's = 1 horsepower. So with the stock airbox, you will be pulling 80 degree air in on a 80 degree day. With a cone filter, you'll be drawing the 150 degree air in from the engine compartment. You'll get better throttle response, BUT you will actually loose a little bit of power. The advantage of the less-resistant cone filter does not offset the disadvantage of drawing warmer air in.
So, how do you get cold air to your engine effectively? The biggest and most popular mod is to remove the drivers side high beam. You can buy metal grates to put over where the lense should be (so it won't be super ugly), and you can get the coolest air possible (obviously ambient temperature).
Hope this helps. If you put a cone filter in place of the air box itself and then a cheapo aftermarket exhaust and cheap chip that wasn't designed by a reputable company... you'll end up having stock 325ix's (all wheel drive = slower) running circles around you.
Also - The M20 is not a very tuneable engine... The most you'll get out of the mods you listed (if you use the proper parts/brands), is probably about 200hp.
You would be much better off getting a performance intake manifold. The exhaust head on the M20 is already pretty unrestrictive... but the intake is (obviously.. just take a look at it.)
From dinanbmw.com (Probably the most reputable tuner in the US)
They got 194 hp and 196 lb-ft torque from the M20 with a chip, exhaust, and intake manifold.
You would be much better off getting a performance intake manifold. The exhaust head on the M20 is already pretty unrestrictive... but the intake is (obviously.. just take a look at it.)
From dinanbmw.com (Probably the most reputable tuner in the US)
They got 194 hp and 196 lb-ft torque from the M20 with a chip, exhaust, and intake manifold.
was going to comment on the numbers, if he does intake and MAS conversion and big bore throttle body AND cat removal/ resonator AND free flow exhaust, i still dont think he would touch 200.
we're talking about a 170 hp engine, 140 at the wheels, roughly. all that i listed would realisticly give you ....maybe 160 @ wheels. Torque would not gain hardly from these mods as eric said, NA tuning is a science and was best done by bmw the first time around on the M20.
we're talking about a 170 hp engine, 140 at the wheels, roughly. all that i listed would realisticly give you ....maybe 160 @ wheels. Torque would not gain hardly from these mods as eric said, NA tuning is a science and was best done by bmw the first time around on the M20.
![[hihi]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_hihi.gif "Hi Hi [hihi]"){kind=icon}
How do you know struts are fine? If your car can't handle well but has a little more powerful engine, you'll STILL be behind.
Get yourself a set of H&R's, j-stocks (which is what I'm buying), or eibach's, and then get yourself bilstein sport shocks. Also make sure ALL of your bushings and balljoints are in great condition. Not for preventative measures but all of this will make your car faster than ANY engine mod (which is only about 20 hp anyways... not worth it IMO...).
I'm still trying to get you to understand trying to push a large gain of power out of a 15 year old engine won't be easy or even possible.... most likely getting your EFI system calibrated and making sure all gaskets are good (ie intake gaskets). Check your timing belt, and do a valve adjustment. Also make sure your distributor cap and rotor are good - I actually got an increase in gas mileage, power, and it is definitely smoother all around.
I'm reccomending you replace these (easy to replace) parts first. You could turbocharge the car but if you're NORMAL parts still suck, you aren't going to get ANYTHING out of it.
Just some advice.
Get yourself a set of H&R's, j-stocks (which is what I'm buying), or eibach's, and then get yourself bilstein sport shocks. Also make sure ALL of your bushings and balljoints are in great condition. Not for preventative measures but all of this will make your car faster than ANY engine mod (which is only about 20 hp anyways... not worth it IMO...).
I'm still trying to get you to understand trying to push a large gain of power out of a 15 year old engine won't be easy or even possible.... most likely getting your EFI system calibrated and making sure all gaskets are good (ie intake gaskets). Check your timing belt, and do a valve adjustment. Also make sure your distributor cap and rotor are good - I actually got an increase in gas mileage, power, and it is definitely smoother all around.
I'm reccomending you replace these (easy to replace) parts first. You could turbocharge the car but if you're NORMAL parts still suck, you aren't going to get ANYTHING out of it.
Just some advice.
Granted i track my car and am trying to tune it to handle better - i have m3 offset control arm bushings, new CA ball joints, lowered suspension, and 1/8" toe out allignment, 16" wheels with some wide tires. let me tell you, this car can turn way better than it used to and has definetly subdued my urge for more HP right now. i need adjustable shocks and thick ass sway bars before im content with the suspension, but this is all still before i plan on engine mods.
One thing that really loaded my car with some new Oompf was the rear differential gear ratio change. let me tell you, THAT is the biggest bang for the buck. but other than all that, i have adjusted valves, new sparks, redline gear oils all around, and keep doing oil changes, you are set.
...i forgot to mention that i still need to upgrade my pads (im not impressed with pagid because of their brake fade), and install SS lines and new blue goo... magma.... i mean brake fluid all before i do engine stuff.
eric doesnt like to agree with free flow engine mods
but i plan to do a modified airbox, big six AFM, 19# injectors, rotor and cap, ignition wires, AFPR with guage, and remove the cat, remove radiator fan, disconnect AC (since its getting cooler again). ... not to mention i have to get bavauto to update my chip at that point. After those mods, its on to the cam and springs but this is where im still undecided; turbo, supercharge, NA with heavy mods, or move to m50+ but it really depends on the class racing i plan to do
more on topic of your CAI... its been tested and proven by fellow bimmer enthusiasts, that the stock airbox is, in fact, still better than any cheap cone filter mod.
hmmm, why the hell am i typing out this much. YOU'RE WELCOME
One thing that really loaded my car with some new Oompf was the rear differential gear ratio change. let me tell you, THAT is the biggest bang for the buck. but other than all that, i have adjusted valves, new sparks, redline gear oils all around, and keep doing oil changes, you are set.
...i forgot to mention that i still need to upgrade my pads (im not impressed with pagid because of their brake fade), and install SS lines and new blue goo... magma.... i mean brake fluid all before i do engine stuff.
eric doesnt like to agree with free flow engine mods
but i plan to do a modified airbox, big six AFM, 19# injectors, rotor and cap, ignition wires, AFPR with guage, and remove the cat, remove radiator fan, disconnect AC (since its getting cooler again). ... not to mention i have to get bavauto to update my chip at that point. After those mods, its on to the cam and springs but this is where im still undecided; turbo, supercharge, NA with heavy mods, or move to m50+ but it really depends on the class racing i plan to domore on topic of your CAI... its been tested and proven by fellow bimmer enthusiasts, that the stock airbox is, in fact, still better than any cheap cone filter mod.
hmmm, why the hell am i typing out this much. YOU'RE WELCOME
Last edited:
xLibelle said:
Granted i track my car and am trying to tune it to handle better - i have m3 offset control arm bushings, new CA ball joints, lowered suspension, and 1/8" toe out allignment, 16" wheels with some wide tires. let me tell you, this car can turn way better than it used to and has definetly subdued my urge for more HP right now. i need adjustable shocks and thick ass sway bars before im content with the suspension, but this is all still before i plan on engine mods.
One thing that really loaded my car with some new Oompf was the rear differential gear ratio change. let me tell you, THAT is the biggest bang for the buck. but other than all that, i have adjusted valves, new sparks, redline gear oils all around, and keep doing oil changes, you are set.
...i forgot to mention that i still need to upgrade my pads (im not impressed with pagid because of their brake fade), and install SS lines and new blue goo... magma.... i mean brake fluid all before i do engine stuff.
eric doesnt like to agree with free flow engine mods but i plan to do a modified airbox, big six AFM, 19# injectors, rotor and cap, ignition wires, AFPR with guage, and remove the cat, remove radiator fan, disconnect AC (since its getting cooler again). ... not to mention i have to get bavauto to update my chip at that point. After those mods, its on to the cam and springs but this is where im still undecided; turbo, supercharge, NA with heavy mods, or move to m50+ but it really depends on the class racing i plan to do
more on topic of your CAI... its been tested and proven by fellow bimmer enthusiasts, that the stock airbox is, in fact, still better than any cheap cone filter mod.
hmmm, why the hell am i typing out this much. YOU'RE WELCOME
One thing that really loaded my car with some new Oompf was the rear differential gear ratio change. let me tell you, THAT is the biggest bang for the buck. but other than all that, i have adjusted valves, new sparks, redline gear oils all around, and keep doing oil changes, you are set.
...i forgot to mention that i still need to upgrade my pads (im not impressed with pagid because of their brake fade), and install SS lines and new blue goo... magma.... i mean brake fluid all before i do engine stuff.
eric doesnt like to agree with free flow engine mods
but i plan to do a modified airbox, big six AFM, 19# injectors, rotor and cap, ignition wires, AFPR with guage, and remove the cat, remove radiator fan, disconnect AC (since its getting cooler again). ... not to mention i have to get bavauto to update my chip at that point. After those mods, its on to the cam and springs but this is where im still undecided; turbo, supercharge, NA with heavy mods, or move to m50+ but it really depends on the class racing i plan to domore on topic of your CAI... its been tested and proven by fellow bimmer enthusiasts, that the stock airbox is, in fact, still better than any cheap cone filter mod.
hmmm, why the hell am i typing out this much. YOU'RE WELCOME
Dan and I are a member of a forum where a member did an S52 swap, a VERY CLEAN s52 swap for about $6000 (including the engine).
Kilomph - one last thing. Open up your air box. There's a VERY restrictive silencer in the top of the airbox.
i heard that its *not* restrictive.
a guy took his off and after 30k or what ever interval of changing the airfilter, he took pics and showed where only one part of the filter had received dirt. so i would think because the "dirt pattern" showed that the horn actually channels the air for better, more even, suction.
also, this part im guessing on, that it could have to do with the AFM flap, how the channel before the AFM that the horn provides, creates a more steady flow of air. for example, when you blip the gas and let off, the rpm can come down hard sometimes which is because of the AFM flap comping closed. if you were to take the horn out, it might make that choke moment (i forget what its really called) a little more dramatic. i dunno, like i said, a little bit of my mechanical engineering mumbo jumbo going on here
and i was just messing with you about my comment. i know you know better.
a guy took his off and after 30k or what ever interval of changing the airfilter, he took pics and showed where only one part of the filter had received dirt. so i would think because the "dirt pattern" showed that the horn actually channels the air for better, more even, suction.
also, this part im guessing on, that it could have to do with the AFM flap, how the channel before the AFM that the horn provides, creates a more steady flow of air. for example, when you blip the gas and let off, the rpm can come down hard sometimes which is because of the AFM flap comping closed. if you were to take the horn out, it might make that choke moment (i forget what its really called) a little more dramatic. i dunno, like i said, a little bit of my mechanical engineering mumbo jumbo going on here
and i was just messing with you about my comment. i know you know better.
uhhhh, oh, yeah. i was going to post a picture of something to the contrary but realized its considered an upgrade like you just said
anyway, heres that horn (the ones in m20e, m42, m10... what ever the numbers are, they all have different sized horns. makes you think, they really are there for a reason. then again, the s14 one is really short, so you might be right eric)
then some pics of afm comparrisons (i posted this stuff in a mod how-to)
anyway, heres that horn (the ones in m20e, m42, m10... what ever the numbers are, they all have different sized horns. makes you think, they really are there for a reason. then again, the s14 one is really short, so you might be right eric)
then some pics of afm comparrisons (i posted this stuff in a mod how-to)