Are Z3's tearing themselves apart?

muskyman

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#21
GRC

you got it made you are in Chi-town...just give leo a call and he can do the fix now for you.

sounds like your car is allready torn if it is clicking.


just give him a call 847-998-9150

he will make your baby all better and stiffer in the rear towers boot

Thom Mathie
 

grc

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#22
i don't think it's the big one, might be the convertible top frame squeaking? the top was replaced right at the end of warranty so i'd like to get a look at what holds it together behind the scenes. listening to it today it is more of a squeak than a click, maybe there is a squeak and a click! i'm 1/2 decided on letting the dealer take a look at it. i have more than a feeling that there are many issues from the collision repair job that should never have been attempted. could be anything and everything, but i'm definately interested in the stiffen up kit no matter what!
 

cape dave

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#23
Hi Bear, I could not download that link. Could you give me a short explaination of what is going on. I just purchased a 97 Z3, picking it up friday. This has me very worried. I hope I didn't make a BIG mistake! Thanks in advance. cape dave
 

Big Daddy

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#25
It was a link to another forum where people were discussing this topic and it had a few photos. I gave owned a 97 2.8, and now have an M roadster and mine never shown any of the signs tearing themselves apart. My dealer, after I looked myself, looked for. Neither of us saw any damage.
 
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#26
There are actually several issues - frame cracks due to general stress and also cracks at the diff. mount. I have looked into this for my E36 325i. Frame cracks are a problem on these cars if they are driven hard or used for autocross/racing. The E36 M3 had reinforcing plates from the factory, they can be retrofitted to non-M E36s, which I plan to do. It appears as though the M Roadster does not have reinforcing plates, so any repairs must be custom made.

Get it looked at closely by an independent person if possible, just to be safe.

Here is an extensive thread with much discussion and links to other info:
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/z3-coupe/4836853-1.html

Couple of other links with pix:
http://www.thelargeglass.com/bmw/subframe/
http://www.z3power.net/Nfong_CrackFrame.html
http://www.mz3.net/articles/207.html
 
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Wraith1

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#27
Hi...I am new to this board. I Googled my way here because yesterday my dealership service tech advised me that my 2000 M-Roadster is literally broken. A couple of days ago I noticed a jarring "Clump" when I would advance from a stop. It felt like I was rolling over a 4x4 block of wood. I took the car to the dealership. They, too, detected the problem. The next morning I received a call advising me that I need a new car; that the drive train and rear end have come apart. He asked me if I had had an accident, if I had been hot-dogging or if anyone else had been driving my car. I answered "No" to all three questions. I have about 99,000 FREEWAY miles on the car and I have been gentle with it since I bought it late in 1999. I am still on the original clutch and brake. The service advisor stated that it looks like metal fatigue and that the dealership cannot fix it. He notified me that he was sending it to a body shop to see if there was anything that could be done. But, in his opinion, the vehicle is only fit to be sold for salvage. He did mention that he intended to contact BMW to see if they would assume some responsibility. But, with nearly 100,000, he was not hopeful. So, what do you think? Did I pay $47,000. five years ago for a car that is now virtually worthless?
 

epj3

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#28
Wraith1 said:
Hi...I am new to this board. I Googled my way here because yesterday my dealership service tech advised me that my 2000 M-Roadster is literally broken. A couple of days ago I noticed a jarring "Clump" when I would advance from a stop. It felt like I was rolling over a 4x4 block of wood. I took the car to the dealership. They, too, detected the problem. The next morning I received a call advising me that I need a new car; that the drive train and rear end have come apart. He asked me if I had had an accident, if I had been hot-dogging or if anyone else had been driving my car. I answered "No" to all three questions. I have about 99,000 FREEWAY miles on the car and I have been gentle with it since I bought it late in 1999. I am still on the original clutch and brake. The service advisor stated that it looks like metal fatigue and that the dealership cannot fix it. He notified me that he was sending it to a body shop to see if there was anything that could be done. But, in his opinion, the vehicle is only fit to be sold for salvage. He did mention that he intended to contact BMW to see if they would assume some responsibility. But, with nearly 100,000, he was not hopeful. So, what do you think? Did I pay $47,000. five years ago for a car that is now virtually worthless?
Unfortunately I think the answer might be yes, BUT, what kind of powertrain warranty does bmw have? I think you SHOULD get insurance money of some kind for the value of the car, and hopefully you will be able to get a very nice discount on a Z4 or something. Though, it wont be the same as your M.
 

grc

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#29
thnks for posting and confirming that the phenomenon is actually happening. salvage? don't throw the baby with the bath water, anything can be fixed. does BMW have some culpability? damn right they do. there are reports of "metal fatigue" on cars with much lower mileage than yours. yours is not an isolated occurrance, see if you can compile a file of occurrances. do i think bmw will step up? good luck! i'd call your auto insurance carrier for their take on the matter, they may be able to cover it. at any rate, i'd start looking for a shop that can rebuild the rear end of the car, not necessarily back to stock. it didn't work the first time, why put it back the same way? hot rod builders do it all the time, cut out and replace/modify the rear frame section with an improved design. ususally to install a better suspension set-up, in this case you need the frame! unfortunatly, this kind of work isn't cheap. i have a feeling the "experts" are making it out to be a little worse than it really is, it just isn't a common repair, like an oil change. i just remembered a guy that had a pinto that separated the rear end, he put it back together with patch plates and sheet metal screws! and drove it for a good long time, it got rubber in 3rd gear! stock 4 cyl! please keep us posted as to how this all proceeds...
 

epj3

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#30
Very true GRC, there is no reason they can't fix it just as good - better - than new. It's only metal. I think there should be some kind of TSB or something issued for these cars - the same thing happens to E36's... the rear subframe rips out on non M's!!
 
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#31
Unless BMW USA steps up and takes ownership (they won't), the dealer won't take ownership either. Take it to someone who specializes in frame repairs. A good shop can fix this by welding plates in to reinforce the stressed areas. You could be looking at $1000 - $2000, but that's better than abandoning the car....
 

Z3PO

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#33
I just bought my 2000 Z3 from a BMW dealer. It is not certified pre-owned. It came as is. The airbag light came on within one day. I took it back and they changed the wireing harness. I picked it up and the light was off. One day later it came back on. I took it back and they fixed it while I waited. The second time they replaced the seatbelt latch. It has not come back on since. I am very happy with the service I was given. They did not charge me one cent. They even gave me a 330I for the day they had my car. If they continue to treat me this way I will buy my next car from them.
 
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#36
its very very rare and that is why bmw na won't do anything about it.
there have been stories of certain dealerships doing the work for free
out of teh kindness of their hearts, but u can be sure it doesn't happen
often either =]
 

Wraith1

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#37
Follow Up

The original info that I received from the Service Tech was wrong. The ribbing that holds the frame and body together is what peeled back (under the trunk). The repair cost is estimated at approximately $5,000. BMW agreed to assume one third of the repair price; the Dealership (Savage BMW), another third and me, the last third. I'm supposed to get my car back next week.

Also, Savage provided me with an X-3 loaner for the last month; no charge.

I'll be back!
 

Big Daddy

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#38
I have done extensive research on this and found that the photo that accompanied the statement, "are z3'2 tearing themselves apart?" was the one posted around the net. The owner/poster of the original photo had told people that he hit a "large object" and it struck the underside of his vehicle. I have continued to check with BMW and they do not have a large base of issues related to this being reported and that most of those who are having a problem admit making mods to heavy mods to the car.

If you find that you have to have the rear lower suspension replaced, you might as well take advantage of the opportunity and have them seam/stich weld the frame. They can also reinforce the rear cross members. I had a large object hit the underside of my vehicle. The Frame had cracks that started from hairline cracks into what you see to the right.
 


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