Bigger Brakes
- Thread starter E30-323TI
- Start date
Glenn-
Yes 19mm is thin, but alot of guys do not want to have to upgrade to a different offest rim to get the clearance for a BBK. So we've decided to keep them this thikness as they will bolt right on without having to do any other mods. Yes the stock setup is a 21mm MC, I would recomend the 23mm M3 one (as they are not expensive) for an upgrade. I think you'll be suppriesd with the pedal responce.
Come on, if you can fit this size intercooler on an e30 and fit a bumper over it, you shouldn't have anything to worry about...![[confused]](/images/smilies/confused.png "Confused [confused]")
Yes 19mm is thin, but alot of guys do not want to have to upgrade to a different offest rim to get the clearance for a BBK. So we've decided to keep them this thikness as they will bolt right on without having to do any other mods. Yes the stock setup is a 21mm MC, I would recomend the 23mm M3 one (as they are not expensive) for an upgrade. I think you'll be suppriesd with the pedal responce.
Come on, if you can fit this size intercooler on an e30 and fit a bumper over it, you shouldn't have anything to worry about...
That is a rather large IC.
I see it has no front panel though (that the head lights mount onto).
Do you have any more pics that E30, assembled ones??
My Problem is the radiator sits in front of the front panel (under the bonnet hinges) then the IC sits infront of that again.
75mm for the radiator & 90mm for the IC.
Calipers will be cleaned up and painted black.
I see it has no front panel though (that the head lights mount onto).
Do you have any more pics that E30, assembled ones??
My Problem is the radiator sits in front of the front panel (under the bonnet hinges) then the IC sits infront of that again.
75mm for the radiator & 90mm for the IC.
Calipers will be cleaned up and painted black.
Last edited:
Adam/Kraig, whoever you are. PLEASE STOP LYING TO EVERYBODY.
THESE BRAKE KITS ARE NOT MADE BY "LOWEN" OR "YOU." These brake kits were designed for E30 and E30 M3 street/track cars by Apex Engineering in San Diego.
http://www.apexengineering.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/20_21
The street and race brake kits can be found on this website. One can see that his "brake kit" information was cut and pasted from the site. Apex Engineering is the only one who sells these kits.
Kraig/Adam has been kicked off every other message board for lying and stealing money from others. He has a lot of you guys fooled again.
Thanks,
Trent
THESE BRAKE KITS ARE NOT MADE BY "LOWEN" OR "YOU." These brake kits were designed for E30 and E30 M3 street/track cars by Apex Engineering in San Diego.
http://www.apexengineering.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/20_21
The street and race brake kits can be found on this website. One can see that his "brake kit" information was cut and pasted from the site. Apex Engineering is the only one who sells these kits.
Kraig/Adam has been kicked off every other message board for lying and stealing money from others. He has a lot of you guys fooled again.
Thanks,
Trent
E30-323i, can you tell me more on the integration of the BMW and Nissan wiring? I'm building the Bimmubishi 4G63 Mitsu powered 318i and I'm about to tackle the wiring. I plan on using the mitsu engine harness and ECU, both of which are mounted in the car already. Is that similar to what you did?
Pictures are at www.dentsport.com
also, Lowen, are you trying to claim that you built that turbo 3.8 liter now? That's so damn stupid I can hardly handle it. You post vague comments to try to trick members into thinking that the work of others is actually your own. So lame.
Alex
Pictures are at www.dentsport.com
also, Lowen, are you trying to claim that you built that turbo 3.8 liter now? That's so damn stupid I can hardly handle it. You post vague comments to try to trick members into thinking that the work of others is actually your own. So lame.
Alex
NISSAN!!! My grand parents drive a NISSAN!!!
TOYOTA!!!
Sorry for that little outburst, don't like nissans too much!!
Anyway,
A 4G63 powered E30, cool.
I love the 4G63, such a versitile engine.
My lancer EVO 1 has a 4G63.
When you take the BMW engine out label all the wires you have to cut, there aren't many. Take note of the ones going into the fuel pump relay, there seems to be alot of things controlled from there ECU, injectors etc...
All the other electrics should still work once the engine and loom are removed.
On the engine find the temp gauge and note the colour of the wires, you will find it again near the fuse box, check the range of the mitsi sender compared to the BMW one (the toyota one I have is the same), if it isn't you will need a new one if the BMW one won't fit on the 4G63.
The Tach runs off a black sheathed wire under the dash (3 pin plug, also has white wire for the economy gauge).
If you are using the stock 4G63 ecu you will need to find the tacho output. It is a low voltage gauge.
The Ignition key was the biggest pain.
When in the on position I had 6v coming from the Start terminal. Weird, So I couldn't use the key to run the starter because it would be cranking in the on position (6v was enough to flick the starter relay). So I've rigged up a very rice red push button to start it.
If you have a set of wiring diagrams for the 318i you will find it a piece of cake.
I'm going to check out those pics now!!
Glenn![[wave]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_wave.gif "Wave [wave]")
TOYOTA!!!
Sorry for that little outburst, don't like nissans too much!!
Anyway,
A 4G63 powered E30, cool.
I love the 4G63, such a versitile engine.
My lancer EVO 1 has a 4G63.
When you take the BMW engine out label all the wires you have to cut, there aren't many. Take note of the ones going into the fuel pump relay, there seems to be alot of things controlled from there ECU, injectors etc...
All the other electrics should still work once the engine and loom are removed.
On the engine find the temp gauge and note the colour of the wires, you will find it again near the fuse box, check the range of the mitsi sender compared to the BMW one (the toyota one I have is the same), if it isn't you will need a new one if the BMW one won't fit on the 4G63.
The Tach runs off a black sheathed wire under the dash (3 pin plug, also has white wire for the economy gauge).
If you are using the stock 4G63 ecu you will need to find the tacho output. It is a low voltage gauge.
The Ignition key was the biggest pain.
When in the on position I had 6v coming from the Start terminal. Weird, So I couldn't use the key to run the starter because it would be cranking in the on position (6v was enough to flick the starter relay). So I've rigged up a very rice red push button to start it.
If you have a set of wiring diagrams for the 318i you will find it a piece of cake.
I'm going to check out those pics now!!
Glenn
Attachments
Sorry- I thought the I6 was a SR26DETT Nissan, but I like the Supra as much, that's a hot car.
What a cool project. Your advice seems sound. Everything I've done is what you suggested. I'm going to do the wiring next week and after that just wait for the driveshaft and I'm most likely done. I just ordered some M5 (e28 ) engine mounts cause they're supposedly more durable being all rubber and not fluid filled.
My IC is going to be replaced once I get the car running for a couple of months. I had a 26 inch wide one on my VR-4 Galant.
I also need a fuel pump. What did you use? Intank or inline? I need 255lph at 43psi to be safe. The mitsu's a thirsty little girl at 20psi.
What a cool project. Your advice seems sound. Everything I've done is what you suggested. I'm going to do the wiring next week and after that just wait for the driveshaft and I'm most likely done. I just ordered some M5 (e28 ) engine mounts cause they're supposedly more durable being all rubber and not fluid filled.
My IC is going to be replaced once I get the car running for a couple of months. I had a 26 inch wide one on my VR-4 Galant.
I also need a fuel pump. What did you use? Intank or inline? I need 255lph at 43psi to be safe. The mitsu's a thirsty little girl at 20psi.
My E30 323i has no intank pump, just the external one.
I'm going to use a bosch 910 inline external pump, They are pretty cheap $125US, I think they flow around 225lph, I can't seem to find much on the bosch pumps on the net.
What gearbox are you using?? Is it a starion 5spd??
Did you buy the engine ready for RWD or did you convert it??
What gen is the engine & what turbo/ecu are you using??
Sorry for all the Q's. Let me know how it goes, looks like a good candidate for my next project.![[:D]](/images/smilies/biggrin.png "Big Grin [:D]")
I'm going to use a bosch 910 inline external pump, They are pretty cheap $125US, I think they flow around 225lph, I can't seem to find much on the bosch pumps on the net.
What gearbox are you using?? Is it a starion 5spd??
Did you buy the engine ready for RWD or did you convert it??
What gen is the engine & what turbo/ecu are you using??
Sorry for all the Q's. Let me know how it goes, looks like a good candidate for my next project.
The gearbox is from a Mighty Max Pickup truck, as well as the flywheel and clutch but the clutch is uprated 6 puck brass button.
I had the motor from my old car, a Galant VR-4. The engine makes 330hp on a lowboy awd dyno last I did it in the galant. The ECU is called a Todd Day Stage 3. It's really nothing fancy save for it's reprogrammed for launch control and several other security features. I have an Apexi AFC and Fuel pressure regulator also.
I've done all the work myself, the composite work, the welding, the design. The whole project has cost under $4K (i ncluding the car!) ((but I already had the motor, computer and Turbo, evo manifolds et cetera which saved a lot of money))
There isn't another car on the road under 60K that'll touch it.
I will have to get wheels, brakes and bilsteins so i'm in for another 1500 probably soon.
I had the motor from my old car, a Galant VR-4. The engine makes 330hp on a lowboy awd dyno last I did it in the galant. The ECU is called a Todd Day Stage 3. It's really nothing fancy save for it's reprogrammed for launch control and several other security features. I have an Apexi AFC and Fuel pressure regulator also.
I've done all the work myself, the composite work, the welding, the design. The whole project has cost under $4K (i ncluding the car!) ((but I already had the motor, computer and Turbo, evo manifolds et cetera which saved a lot of money))
There isn't another car on the road under 60K that'll touch it.
I will have to get wheels, brakes and bilsteins so i'm in for another 1500 probably soon.
That should be a beast. Traction will be you worst enemy!!
I presume you have (or are going to) replace the little 318i diff??
I have left my stock diff in for now as in NZ you need the speedo working to get a LVV Certification plate. I have a LSD from a MA70 supra waiting to go in once the stocker spits the dummy.
If you're interested in doing the same brake conversion as me PM me your email addy and I can flick you some drawings.
What the hell is a mighty max pickup truck?? Is that like a ute or bigger??
What engine did it come with?? 4G64??
Here in NZ we get L200 utes that come with 2.4 or 2.6 4cyls of 3.0v6's, as well as the diesel POS's.
I presume you have (or are going to) replace the little 318i diff??
I have left my stock diff in for now as in NZ you need the speedo working to get a LVV Certification plate. I have a LSD from a MA70 supra waiting to go in once the stocker spits the dummy.
If you're interested in doing the same brake conversion as me PM me your email addy and I can flick you some drawings.
What the hell is a mighty max pickup truck?? Is that like a ute or bigger??
What engine did it come with?? 4G64??
Here in NZ we get L200 utes that come with 2.4 or 2.6 4cyls of 3.0v6's, as well as the diesel POS's.
this sounds kinda lame... but ive got an 325i e30 and ive always taken it to the dealer to change the brakes but this time i wanna do it myself. is there anything out of the ordinary that i have to make sure i do with changing the brakes since this is a bmw. as a matter of fact does anyone have a little list of procedures i can see taht might make it easier for me? thanks a lot
Pick up a Haynes manual or better yet a Bentley 3 series manual for the E30. You'll get plenty of use out of it. Both cover many topics. One hint though, stock rotors do not have much metal in them so do not bother cutting them. New rotors are cheap, see Eurasian auto parts at www.eap4parts.com. Get the ATE power discs while you are at it. They are only a couple dollars more and are grooved. Get pads that don't mimic charcoal as they are used. Flush the system and use a good DOT 4 brake fluid (not DOT3) or ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid. Good luck. They are not hard to do. Having a reference manual is good for other projects as well.
E30-323ti,
I have solidworks and CAD, so if you can send me those pics that'd be most helpful!
I'll wait also, for the diff to blow out and then work a replacement for it, maybe something with a Quaiffe LSD diff.
The mighty max is a pickup truck but it shared internals with the Starion, I think you have those in NZ.
For rear tires I was thinking 15 by 8 wide with 235 15's
will your brakes fit under 15's?
I have solidworks and CAD, so if you can send me those pics that'd be most helpful!
I'll wait also, for the diff to blow out and then work a replacement for it, maybe something with a Quaiffe LSD diff.
The mighty max is a pickup truck but it shared internals with the Starion, I think you have those in NZ.
For rear tires I was thinking 15 by 8 wide with 235 15's
will your brakes fit under 15's?