1991 325IX -- need purchase advice

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Dayton OH
#21
Thanks for the tips on the service lights. I'll respond back with exactly what it was. Im hoping to take pics of the Saturday. If you dont mind, Ill post a few and you can rate the condition of the car for me (avg, poor, exc, etc).

It really sounds like after the timing belt and water pump, the rest of the stuff on these cars is pretty small in terms of cost. If I end up getting the car I may just do these and have the peace of mind I have 60,000 miles of clear road ahead of me.
 
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#22
Dont' forget my early commetns regarding rust - take a screwdriver or something with you (to poke at suspect spots under guards etc) and be quite diligent in checking for rust in the locations I said - it can often be hard to see and I have had two friends get caught out by hidden rust that they would have seen if they had looked properly and got under the car and really had a good look.

Cost them the cars eventually as they were too expensive to get them brought up to legal standard.

Otherwise good luck and look forward to seeing photos.
 
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#23
I'm pushing 280k miles on my '87 325e that is all original, never rebuilt. I know nothing about the reliability specific to the iX (they are rare cars), but for the most part, e30 BMWs are pretty solid cars. The engines are great - they will last a LONG time with just simple routine oil changes and timing belt changes.

Timing belts should be changed every 60k miles. If it breaks, it's bad. Water pumps are EASY to replace and are about $50 for the part via the internet. If you are replacing the timing belt and you are unsure of the age of the water pump, go ahead and do the water pump at the same time - there won't be any additional labor to do it.

The service light that is on on the dash is probably the "Inspection" light. These cars have inspection schedules that you can learn lots about with a simple google search. They are usually very pricey if done at the dealer, but they don't really do anything that you can't do yourself cheaply - they mostly entail just replacing fluids and examining the conditions of various critical parts to assess for wear.

No matter what you have read in other forums, the e30 automatic transmission is a weak point in the car. BMW automatics have always been and continue to be weak points even in the brand new cars. No, not all of them crap out at 120,000 miles, but many of them do. It's just something to be aware of, because your car may be one of the ones where it does crap out at 120,000. You WILL be replacing the automatic at some point, because I can guarantee you that it won't last as long as the engine. If the car is a manual (which I assume it isn't since you got defensive when told that the automatics don't last as long), the clutch will last over 200k if not beat to hell (my original clutch lasted 260k) and cost between $400-600 to replace. That's much cheaper than the replacement of an automatic transmission.

Another common problem is the steering racks - they often will crap out at a little over 100k. I have 280k on my original one, but that is definitely the exception, not the rule.

The A/C system can get expensive to repair if/when it breaks. The compressors used on most of the e30s (Nippondensos) are very expensive to replace and are known for their tendency to sieze. The expansion valve is another common part to have to replace.

Lots of people seem to have problems with the electrical system in these cars, but I haven't really had much issue with mine.

Parts usually aren't too expensive for these cars - you can save a lot of money by ordering parts online unless you have a cool local BMW dealer that will match mail order prices on parts. There are a few parts here and there that are overly expensive for what the part is. For the most part, these are pretty simple cars and are usually pretty easy to work on. Alot of the jobs "require" a special BMW tool, but you can usually do the job without it. You said you aren't mechanically inclined, so that really doesn't matter anyways. If you are going to be paying someone to work on the car, beware that this can get very expensive in the US - most of your BMW specialists are expensive.

Like I said, I know nothing about the reliability of the iX specific parts since they are so rare, but I have read that replacing the AWD system parts can be expensive. Also keep in mind that other suspension parts (struts, control arms, etc) are different from the much much more common non-AWD cars and are therefore more expensive as well.

Problem areas: the automatic transmissions (whether you want to admit it or not), timing belts, water pumps, driveshaft flex discs, driveshaft center support bearing, transmission output shaft seal leaks on the manuals, wheel bearings on higher mile cars, seat heaters, rear tailight gaskets leaking (easy fix), rear shock mounts, service interval circuit board batteries, power steering racks, fuel pumps, odometer gears breaking, windshields pitting, Nippondenso A/C compressors siezing. The driveshaft flex disk and center support bearings are especially commonly replaced parts - my CSB just crapped out on me day before yesterday, so I am driving a rental car until I can tear the damn thing apart and fix it this weekend.

It'd be worth $50-$60 to take the car to a BMW specialist to have them inspect it before purchasing.
 
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Dayton OH
#24
I had to pick up my 930 today at the shop. They work on as many or more BMWs as they do Porsches. I talked to the head mechanic/service person there whom the owner suggested to talk to specifically on BMWs and he definitely wants to see the car. So I will do that if the owner allows it. The car is 45min away from my shop so Im at his mercy. The seller is a used car lot who bought it from an Acura dealer who took it on on trade. The dude seems laid back so Im not anticipating any difficulty.

Anyway back to the BMW. He mentioned the IXs have more driveline noises from the AWD and the IXs are less seen and heard so a good look at the transfer case stuff would be paramount. He also said not to be scared by the autos in any way because if the car is solid the tranny will probably be solid and far outperform any averages. His quote was "Ive seen just as many original E30 autos hit 200K as I have never make it to 75K. If its from a loving owner, your odds are better." He knows the kind of cars I like to own -- watertight cars that were rubbed with diapers all their life -- so if he thinks trouble looms Im sure he'll tell me.

That said however, I cant believe how much cheaper BMW service is compared to Porsche. Its like 1/2 to 1/3. I feel like we're talking Honda prices. I know its still a lot more than a Honda, but I guess you just get used to a routine maintenance item costing $1500.

The car is already priced about $1000 below NADA which is why it peaks my interest. So there is room there for improving the car and still feeling like over the long haul -- 5-6yrs, that I could be getting a very good deal -- rebuilt tranny or not -- if most of the car is above average condition for its age.
 
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Dayton OH
#25
OK heres some pics:




















Drove it yesterday. Tranyn felt as smooth as silk. Doesnt have quite the oomph of my WRX and revs like an automatic, but the tranny seemed very smooth. I changed between P N R D 3 2 1 several times and never felt any big clanks or sudden jolts. In most cases I felt hardly anything or heard hardly anything. No weird sounds at 70+mph.

Except for the BMW floor mats which seem to change colors like all the others, the interior is almost mint. Some new mats and some detailing and the inside will be looking like a new car. A/C blew pretty cold though the fan isnt quite as strong as my WRX. Butt warmers worked fine. Signals, lights etc. Moonroof works great. Stereo works great. Pretty loud too. I was kind of surprised.

Paint on the outside is in excellent shape all things considered. Few door dings and scratches, but no paint fade or peeling. A week of clay bar-ing, polishing, and waxing will improve the car by $800.

The spoke rims are a bit worn. Have those barnacle rusty kind of things on them. Physically they are fine. Some sanding and a can of spraypaint from Eastwoods and they are good to go.

Looked everywhere for rust. Couldnt find any. No rust under the wheel wells.

The only real bad spots are one foglight doesnt work, rear passenger window wont go down, and the front tires need replacing. The service indicator light was green I think. Im just going to do the timing belt and water pump to be safe. Change all the fluids, and replace some oddball things. The chrome and plastic exterior trim is in so-so shape. But I do concours on my Porsches so all of it can be brought to new again with some elbow grease.
 
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#26
Looks good - it has the six-speaker audio setup that is why the factory sounds sound good. Also appears to be one of the models that got airbags - only came in in the last one or two years - this is a good thing.

I think the car looks good. If it were me I'd get a mechanical check, buy it 9if checked out ok) and then like you say do the belt and pump, plugs, oil, trans fluid and all filters incl. air and fuel, and give the car a good going over with some cleaning products, and hey presto!
 
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Dayton OH
#27
I want to order some new floor mats from BavAuto. Looking at the pics I posted, whats the factory designation of my interior? Is it "tan". Or is it called something else.

Those ugly factory discolored floor mats are the first things to get the heave-ho. So I want to order the right color replacements.


I spent 5hrs detailing the inside of the car last night. Scrubbed the carpet with a toothbrush and Griots interior cleaner, then cleaned all the leather and vinyl with Lexol and Vinylex. I cant say enough about how much better I made it. Almost looks brand new inside. Well, almost anyway. I should take some "after" pics, you might be surprised.

Anyway, do I need "tan" floor mats? Or is it "natural"?

Heres the swabs from Bav Auto:

 
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Dayton OH
#29
Ended up paying $3300.

Not sure how much its gonna take to return the car to tip top shape. The car has good points and questionable points.

Interior wise, the car is as good as they come. I could look for 2-3 years more and not find a better kept interior. It was dirty as heck and had a couple stains and stuff, but I have some great products I use for Porsche concours that cleaned it up beautifully.

And interior wise, many of the things that tend to break or stop working over time still work. Power attenna for radio, heated seats, power locks and mirrors, all but one power window, moonroof etc. So I dont see myself spending more than a pence inside -- floor mats is about all it needs for it to be top 3%.

Exterior wise, it needs some work. The previous owner must have repaired every stone chip he ever encountered with a freaking putty knife and a glop of touch u paint. Of the 100 small stone chips on the hood that are the size of an eraser head, theres 2 inches of smeared touch up paint all around it. Just ridiculous. Forget polishes and clay bars and all that. I might try some wet-sanding but I doubt it will do a thing. I may take it to Maaco for a cheap respray of the hood. I dont need a top end respray, just something to make the hood look normal. Theres similar touch ups on other parts of the car, but at a much more minimal level. Anywhere but the hood, from 8ft away the car shines great. I polished one whole side tonight with 3M hand glaze and also the trunk. Took twice as long to get the caked on cheap turtle wax someone seemed to have left on for ages. I spent 30min alone just cleaning around the 325ix trunk badge.

The rims will need repainted. I may need tires too. Im almost thinking of just painting the rims while I have the tires still on the rims. Take one tire/rim off the car at a time and repaint them. Once Im all done just drive to the tire store for new tread. It wouldnt matter it I had overspray on the bad tires.

Engine bay is so dirty. About 3 inches of dust/dirt. I tried the damp washcloth route. Too many nooks and crannies. I may try my air compressor this weekend and just blow the dust away. Im not sure this will even work. Id like to take a firehose to it.

Physically, the car has been driving fine so far. Had to drive 50 miles home when I bought it. The parking pawl no longer catches. I hear some creaking at the back. Perhaps new shocks. We'll find out on timing belt/ water pump. Maybe fluids and other stuff. I havent decided how much Im going to do to get the car in the fast lane just yet. If its large sums, I may dump it. If it has good bones and needs a handful of preventive wear and tear maintenance items done, I may stick it out.

The only thing I dont like about an older car is the reliability unknown. In a new car you dont even have to change the oil or put gas in it, and it still seems to run and start up every morning. I dont have a ton of free time and have too many hobbies to take on massive BMWism as well. I just need reliable transportation with AWD. We'll see. Ill get it in the shop this week or next and see how things look. I figured Id take a stab since the price was so low compared to many other IXs floating around and inside the car was great. Perhaps I got lucky. Maybe I didnt. If I didnt, I can always dump it soon for probably what I paid (or more since Ive cleaned it) and get a Forester or something.

Ill try to get some new pics up soon since Ive started cleaning it.
 

andreanrc

New Member
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Amsterdam, Netherlands
#30
325 ix

These are very solid cars. There is a rumor, that they were assembled manually, as the e34 M5.
I have now 525 ix. The motor has done without any revision almost 400 000 km
almost 260 000 miles and will do more.
The complete clutch (spring) has been changed only ones - the clutch disk has been changed 3 times. Last time the clutch looked so good, that I again decided to leave it in.
I have recently changed the brake disks after almost 170 000km. They became thin at the front and not equal enough at the back.
Pity but many parts in these cars is different than in the regular 525.
It will be the same with 325ix. You will probaly need the original brake disks bigger than normal etc.

These cars are slower than the i version but have more torque. They use ca 10 % more fuel. You will have it back in smaller maintanance costs.
Use for the motor the best Castrol oil you can get. It will be a bit too thin but will spare the motor, especially in winter.

Good luck with it - Piotr

PS Check the site: www.bmwism.com
 
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Dayton OH
#31
Well Ive put about 50hrs of cleaning into the car since I picked it up. The pics at the beginning of the thread were at the lot.

Here's some updated ones:















I cannot believe how filthy this car was. It took me three hours just to clean 2 door jams. An hour to clean the trunk and polish the underside of it, and 3hrs to clean the engine area and hood underside. A good 10hrs on the inside. 5-6 hours already on the rims. Im gonna go at the spare BBS rim from the trunk tomorrow. So much brake dust on them that I dont think they were cleaned in 80,000 miles. Ive spent 5hrs at least on the rubber trim that was all faded. My Back to Black is slowly bringing it back. And it also worked well on those air vents just below the windshield which were gray now, not black - from sun fade.

The hood is gonna need repainted. And I plan to repaint the wheels with some satin for a freshen up.

There was so much wax buildup on the car it was ridiculous. Just caked on and dried for years probably. In every nook and cranny. Amazing what people will do to a car. Just amazing. There was wax inside the hood jams and water channels.

Its slowly comin though.
 
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#33
Its an optical llusion I think. From 2ft away the paint looks so-so. From 6ft it looks terrific.

I pulled the spare tire today and cleaned it, along with cleaning the spare tire well.

Anyone know how to get the chrome kidneys off the car. I want to repaint them. I notice a couple screws on each side of the black grills. Id like to paint the headlight rims chrome too if I can get them out. I notice a pair of screws for each headlight, but dont know if those are actually install screws or nothing more than adjustment screws.

Anyone have any good replacement headlights to recommend. I assume the stocks suck since they are 1991. I used Cibie E-Code and Narva bulbs on my 944T and the improvement from original Halogens are "night and day".
 
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Bay Of Islands, NZ
#35
The kidneys are attached to the lower front skirt where the skirt protrudes just above the front bumper. There might be fastners at the top too, but I can't remember and it has been an age since I last removed it.

You can get replacement headlights, but the 88-91 cars got the ellipsodal headlights which in my opinion are fine.

In NZ, we aren't allowed to install new HID or xenon lights in these cars for various ridiculous reasons (the main one being the wide variation in quality of aftermarket lamps and the inability to control how dazzling they are if a cheap or poorly adjusted set are installed) so I haven't but I am happy with my lights as they are.
 
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#36
As far as the interior color goes (for buying new mats), call the parts department at your local BMW dealer and give them your VIN. They can tell you what the specific interior color of your car is from the VIN.
 
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#37
I got the color of the interior. Its "natural". I went ahead and ordered mats with "325IX" embroidered on them.

I havent really driven the car at night yet. I'll see how the stock 1991 lights do. I know my sealed beams in the 86 944T were a pile of doody.

I knew I had to order new tires for this car. I went with Bridgestone Potenza G009s. My shop told me a couple of the BBS rims were not straight and it would cost a couple hundred dolalrs to unmount, straighten, and remount so I might be better of just ordering a new set of rims and not worry about wacky tracking on bad rims. So I ordered some 16" ASA BBS knockoffs. Total was just under $1100.

As far as the car, Im getting all new shocks on all four corners. I forget which kind but I know the fronts are 3x as expensive as the rears. Plus new timing belt, water pump, and maybe spark plugs. All told with labor and everything and including the new rims and tires I may be in the hole about $2800.

But starting at $3300 I dont feel too bad.

Shop said the underside of the car looks pretty good and clean. No rust areas. Engine seems strong. Tranny shifts ok. On the parking pawl issue, the shop basically said why go in debt to fix it (expensive) as long as I have a comfort level using the parking brake. I guess their position was, use the parking brake and just deal with it. I can live with that. Tranny itself shifts smooth every time Ive driven it. No big jerks between gears when shifting. So Im hopeful the issue is isolated.

My last issues on the car may be a foglight thats out, a back window that doesnt roll down, perhaps new brakes which are pretty cheap, and Maaco'ing the hood with a respray. That should hopefully do it for the next 25-30K miles.

The stuff sure adds up, but, still cheaper than $380/mth Im paying now for my lease. The longer I can hold onto the car, but cheaper and cheaper it becomes.

Shop thought all things considered $3300 as a pretty fair get on the car considering the inside is pretty much mint. Just hasnt had any service in 5yrs or so and some of the gizzards needed overhauled. In their words, "the thing handled like a chuckwagon".

I'l be interested to see how much better it rides. Im hoping they get it all done by Friday. The new rims and rubber should arrive from Tirerack Thursday. I'll post pics.
 
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#38
Heres some updated pics since I got the car back. All the shocks are done. Oil change, timing belt, water pump, new spark plugs, few miscellaneous items, new floor mats, new tires and rims:











 


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