looking to purchase a 1990 325i

[Yesterday617]

All I know about it is from the ad that it's a 1990 325i 2 door 5 speed 130k miles in great condition.

I'm just wondering if you know some rather basic questions to ask / things to look at when I take it out for a test drive later tonight or this weekend.

Sorry for the newbie quesiton. My last one was a '78 320i, but that was 7 years ago!

 

[abellia]

I picked a 1991 325i convertible in April with 58K. These are generally very well built cars but need preventive maintenance to keep them going. Definitely ask about the service that's been done on the car.

Specifically,

- When were the belts changed (Drive Belt especially); BMW recommends every 60K on the drive belt, I would replace them at more frequent intervals. All other belts should be changed more frequently.

- When was the water pump changed.
- When was fuel filter changed.
- Has the Oxygen Sensor been changed? if so, when

Query googles for 'BMW Level II Inspection" and you'll get an good idea.

Not having any records wouldn't totally discourage me, but I would then plan on performing the maintance above along with other (spark plugs, fluids,etc) and factor that into the price of the automobile. If it's been taken car of, it should drive well as these cars are solid.

 

[UDPride]

I didnt have records on the 91 IX I bought, just overall condition of the car and a carfax that proved it was a one owner car. Interior was mint, exterior was average. I dont sit on the outside of the car and decents and scratches dont affect engine performance so I didnt care. I did have to sink some cash into it -- the usual stuff, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, fluids, complete new shocks all around, + a cpl rims were bent and rubber shot so I had to get new rims and tires. That behind me, the car seems to be trucking ok now. Starts right up and runs really well on the highway.

Random question, whats the avg fuel range on an IX. Im getting 245 miles or so, before the needle looks close enough to empty to need refilled before I decide to chance it and get stranded.

The needle bounces around a bit. One minute it looks like I have 3/4 tank and another minute 5/8 or a tank.

To put it in perspective, the needle can move two needle widths up and down in a span of a cpl minutes. Sort of aggravating. Ive been just driving through it and refueling about every 230-245 miles. Im afraid when the needle says 1/4 tank Im really on 1/6 or something with the fluctuation. Ive noticed a lot of old cars have this fuel gauge mystery.

 

[Militant-Grunt]

The same thing happens in my ml55, just a lot less drastic, It reads differently on hills and just not flat surfaces, something to do with the meter within the tank itself

I didnt have records on the 91 IX I bought, just overall condition of the car and a carfax that proved it was a one owner car. Interior was mint, exterior was average. I dont sit on the outside of the car and decents and scratches dont affect engine performance so I didnt care. I did have to sink some cash into it -- the usual stuff, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, fluids, complete new shocks all around, + a cpl rims were bent and rubber shot so I had to get new rims and tires. That behind me, the car seems to be trucking ok now. Starts right up and runs really well on the highway.

Random question, whats the avg fuel range on an IX. Im getting 245 miles or so, before the needle looks close enough to empty to need refilled before I decide to chance it and get stranded.

The needle bounces around a bit. One minute it looks like I have 3/4 tank and another minute 5/8 or a tank.

To put it in perspective, the needle can move two needle widths up and down in a span of a cpl minutes. Sort of aggravating. Ive been just driving through it and refueling about every 230-245 miles. Im afraid when the needle says 1/4 tank Im really on 1/6 or something with the fluctuation. Ive noticed a lot of old cars have this fuel gauge mystery.

 

[Yesterday617]

Thanks for the info. I took it on a test drive this morning, and it drove fine around a few blocks. I'm a horrible negotiator, so I offered the full price.

He said there's two issues with the car:

- AC needs recharging (any know the average price for this?)
- Fuel tank can't be filled all the way to the top because there's some sort of leak right at the top. He said this is common with this car and really doesn't need to be repaired as long as I don't top off the tank.

That said, here's the ad:
http://boston.craigslist.org/car/79759128.html

If financing goes through today, I'll pick it up tomorrow. How horrible a decision is this?

 

[Chesty Bonds]

He said there's two issues with the car:

- Fuel tank can't be filled all the way to the top because there's some sort of leak right at the top. He said this is common with this car and really doesn't need to be repaired as long as I don't top off the tank.

Are you kidding me? I have never heard of this as a common problem before, let alone as a problem in isolation until now! You can't have a car that you can't brim with fuel.

Also, for that bloke to say his car is in great condition is certainly stretching the truth, I think. Looking at the pics leads me to believe that she's pretty tired and not in the best of health.

Moreover, you said it drove fine around a few blocks. Was the engine already warm when you took it out? Because you MUST test-drive a used-car from cold. You need to check for smoke on start-up, cam noise, gearbox feel when cold etc, etc. On top of that, you really need to spend a good day with the car before you commit. You MUST take the car on a decent drive, by which I mean in as many driving situations that you can manage: freeway for high-speed, stop-start traffic to make sure engine doesn't overheat etc. Also, pull off the oil cap when the engine is running to make sure the rings aren't shot. There are many little things you can do to minimise your exposure to disaster.

If the car doesn't have books then I'd personally run a mile but if you really want the car you cannot possibly pay his asking price. You will seriously regret buying a BMW that's crook. It will only cost you a fortune for parts and servicing and if you skimp on the maintenance it will honestly spiral out of control.

I don't want to stop you from getting a car that you really want but you must really thoroughly check a car over before you commit. From what I can gather, this car might prove to be trouble, and that is most certainly not what you want with a lovely BMW. I'm sure the others will agree.

Good luck, and keep us up-to-date.

 

[Yesterday617]

Thank you very much for the constructive advice. My impatience tends to get the best of my better judgement sometimes. You're right about most all of what you said with regards to checking it out more. It's a $2,000 car, and not a $10,000 car, which means that I just don't want to deal with the intense day-long test drive and annoying the seller with an endless list of questions.

He did say he's got all the paperwork starting about 7 years ago, so that helps, AND I made sure to ask about the timing chain, which was replaced something like 30k miles ago.


Here's a really, really stupid quesiton: Are the steering wheels on this model larger than a normal car's steering wheel? I used to drive an '88 325ic and a '78 320i and don't remembering them looking / feeling so big.

 

[Chesty Bonds]

I understand what you're saying regarding pestering the owner and spending more time with the car: it makes you look like an arsehole and it takes up a lot of your time. I certainly sympathise with you on this point.


But I must say that it doesn't matter how much the car is, you just have to take these careful steps in evaluating whether or not you're buying a car; especially if it's a BMW, for the reasons I stated before.

Paperwork for the past 7 years is a good start. Having the timing belt changed is also a primary requirement so it's good that this has been done, though I must admit I'm not sure what the interval is supposed to be. Epj3 is most likely to know about that. The M20 engine is one of only three BMW engines that have belt-driven timing systems.

With regards to the steering-wheel, I can't tell you exactly whether this car has the right one or not as I can't see a pic. I will say that I have the M-Technic three-spoke design in my E30 and it is rather large! Actually, it's a bit of a drawback especially combined with my car's lengthy turns lock-to-lock (it's got to be close to four, which is just too much!) and this ensures lots of arm-twirling when you get the back end sliding around! So, in all likelihood, this 325i probably has the same one.

Hope this helps.

 

[epj3]

Timing belts on e30's should usually be changed any time you do head work - or every 50,000 - 60,000 miles. And you're right - I believe it is 3.5 turns lock to lock - if not a little more.

The thing I absolutely miss about the e30's steering (as compared to the e34's) is if you get the tail out a bit and you still have forward momentum, the car almost 'self centers' the drift - ie the way to control the e30 once the rear is out is just to let the wheel do what it wants. On the e34 it's a bit different!

 

[Chesty Bonds]

The thing I absolutely miss about the e30's steering (as compared to the e34's) is if you get the tail out a bit and you still have forward momentum, the car almost 'self centers' the drift - ie the way to control the e30 once the rear is out is just to let the wheel do what it wants

Yeah let me tell you that a slippy diff will allow you to do such things! My E30's tail-out characteristics can only be described as demonic because of the open diff. I know what you mean though; I drove an E46 M3 at Philip Island and its oversteer characteristics were just so predictable, benign, and progressive. Absolute joy to drive.

I wish I had an LSD!

I know, I know

 

[epj3]

Yeah let me tell you that a slippy diff will allow you to do such things! My E30's tail-out characteristics can only be described as demonic because of the open diff. I know what you mean though; I drove an E46 M3 at Philip Island and its oversteer characteristics were just so predictable, benign, and progressive. Absolute joy to drive.

I wish I had an LSD!

I know, I know

Hehehe, both my e30 and my e34 have/had lsd's (helll yea..hehe)

 

[mjbst111]

there are panels under the back seat that give you quite a bit of access to the fuel tank. It will be pretty darn easy to see why you can't fill the tank to the top. All you need to do is pull up the seat, move the rug, and take off two panels with 4 phillip head screws on each.

If there is a leak it wouldn't be able to pressurize either. does it run ok?

 

[epj3]

there are panels under the back seat that give you quite a bit of access to the fuel tank. It will be pretty darn easy to see why you can't fill the tank to the top. All you need to do is pull up the seat, move the rug, and take off two panels with 4 phillip head screws on each.

If there is a leak it wouldn't be able to pressurize either. does it run ok?

Fuel tank on the e30 isn't pressurized (if that's what you're saying)

 

[mjbst111]

i knew that... hehe. thanks, i wasn't sure.

 

[Chesty Bonds]

Oi Mike how's your new E36 going anyway? Filling in the large E30 shoes?

Sorry Brandon, I'm hijacking your post.

 

[mjbst111]

haha there is no doubt that e30 shoes are very hard to fill. If i could have found another one i would have bought it BUT

man i'm really enjoying the 328. It is pretty darn powerful and seems like it can handle just as well. (sport package) But we all know there no better feel than an e30......

This only real gripe i have on this 328 is the clutch delay valve. I'm working on buying a power bleeder so i can remove that. I think it will feel more like an e30 then!

Oh yeah its nice to have 4 doors too. SO i guess overall..... I am very happy with it!

Thank you for asking!

 

[epj3]

haha there is no doubt that e30 shoes are very hard to fill. If i could have found another one i would have bought it BUT

man i'm really enjoying the 328. It is pretty darn powerful and seems like it can handle just as well. (sport package) But we all know there no better feel than an e30......

This only real gripe i have on this 328 is the clutch delay valve. I'm working on buying a power bleeder so i can remove that. I think it will feel more like an e30 then!

Oh yeah its nice to have 4 doors too. SO i guess overall..... I am very happy with it!

Thank you for asking!

Isn't it nice to have FOUR windows that open? That's my favorite thing about the e34, even though I'm relatively unhappy with it recently, since EVERYTHING feels "loose" like the clutch hydraulics, brakes, suspension is old and mushy, tires kind of suck, and it seems like EVERYTHING outside the car rattles.... it just needs work done and i'm frustrated becuase I can't do anything yet.

 

[mjbst111]

oh man that is the worst thing ever. You have this amazing beautiful wonderful car but it needs a little work. You can fix it all but just don't quite have the time. That waiting period of frustration. I definitely know how you feel. That where i was with my e30 from time to time. I'd get so frustrated with it but it was the best car! Its just those short periods of time where you don't/can't wrench on it. Thats where i am with the CDV on my e36. I just have to show my car some love eventually but i just can't get to it yet.

but my goodness 4 windows that open and go all the way down. stinking great. You don't get the wind blowing right in your ear when you have a rear window to open.

 

[Chesty Bonds]

but my goodness 4 windows that open and go all the way down. stinking great. You don't get the wind blowing right in your ear when you have a rear window to open.

OMG that is so true! Yeah I'm missing that privilege with my '30 but she makes up for it in other ways

Glad to hear you're liking the '36. I wouldn't be complaining with 193BHP either! And get rid of the CDV quick-smart! lol

 

[epj3]

What's happening to all these e30's? It seems like a year ago, SO many people had e30's... even on the e30 message board I'm a member of, I think most people own 5er's now...!