looking to purchase a 1990 325i

[dark_islight]

BMW CHECK LIST ITEM



INTERIOR
Buttons
Windows
Fan Blower
A/C
Sunroof--look for rust where the tracks are
Seat--remove seat covers – re-upholstering jobs run $500 - $2,000 for the front seats alone
Dashboard, console for cracks or signs of wear
Carpet – decent shape
Pull to inspect floor pans for rust (rear cabin)
Lights on instrument cluster light up when the key is turned to position 1 or 2, and go dark once the car is started. It is very common for people to disconnect or remove the light bulbs to hide problems
Radio
Power mirrors
Power locks
Power sunroof
Flashers
Turn signals
Brake lights
Fog lights
Headlights

UNDER THE HOOD
Steering rack ($500)
Control arms ($500)
Driveshaft ($800)
Radiator ($250)
Brakes ($500)
SI Board ($250)
Timing belt ($400)(not applicable on M42 engine)---- Record of last change
Battery $ 100
Clutch $ 800
Various electronics $ 0-1,000
Auto Transmission $ 1,000

ENGINE COMPARTMENT
Engine clean
Leaks – head gasket
Oil Level / Oil conditionWhat color is the oil? ... any metal flakes in it?
Straight Frame
VIN # consistency… The VINS should be found on both front fenders. The rear fenders do not have VIN stickers.
Signs of repair
Chain tensioner
Profile gasket
Shock towers - excessive weld lines could be repair - accident or collapsed shock tower.
Dipstick for signs of coolant (cracked block)
Check condition / color of fluid containers
Water pump (check for leaks)
Same with the power steering pump
chirping noise from blower fan = last legs
belts are in good shape (timing belt especially),

TRUNK
Water accumulation
Spare Tire
Tool Kit
Signs of repair ( pull back carpet)

EXTERIOR
Check body panels for damage/signs of repair.
Do VIN numbers match.
Look for anything out of the ordinary.
Aftermarket stuff can hide dents or damage.
Check the head and taillights for cracks or pits.
Make sure that entire door locks work properly.

TIRES
Tread life on tires
Uneven tire wear
Rims for damage

UNDER SIDE
Rust on the floor pans
Rust on the drive train
Rust on the exhaust
Check the steering rack boots for leaks

TEST DRIVE
How does the car idle? ...Check for a rough idle, hesitation, and knocks.
The engine should be pretty smooth unless it is modified by performance upgrades like camshafts.
Make sure the car can pull to redline without drama.
Make sure the shifting is smooth and swift (short shifters can feel notchy).
Check for a hard brake pedal and smooth stops.
The handling and ride should be up to usual BMW standards (stiff but sweet).
Make sure the E-brake is tight and holds the car in place.
Does the car stay straight when you slam on the brakes and let go of the steering wheel?
Does the steering wheel turn when you go over potholes?
Any grinding or knocking (not ticking) in the engine bay?
How about when you rev high then release?
When you slam on the gas then release, any knocking sounds from the shock mounts?..
Sub frame?
Differential whine. If you hear any loud noises from the rear, STAY AWAY.
buzzing or humming from the wheels (wheel bearing)...
If manual how's the clutch? how easily does the car shift from 1st to 2nd without depressing the clutch?.. If you push gently it should be able to slide right in without any grinding.
Any play in the steering wheel? ...
ABS kick in when you slam on the brakes?


Good Luck [bmwdance]

 

[epj3]

Good list! Just thought people should know a lot of those repairs are half of what is listed there if you know where to get stuff

 

[KevRC4130]

I've been eyeing that car as well. It used to be $2700, he has been posting it on craigslist for over a month. The best part about that car is the Calypso paint... rare and sexy!

Honestly, if I was buying a two door E30, I'd get an iS. The only way I'd get an i would be if I got a 4-door. It just seems like a waste to not get the iS, you get so many goodies, and often can be found for about the same price.

 

[Chesty Bonds]

I like the directions under 'test drive' in that list. Very good indeed.

 

[Yesterday617]

UPDATE - and thanks a ton for all the advice

So I checked it out on Monday morning and it seemed to drive fine. I looked around and kicked the tires and got a general idea of whether it seemed worth the $2,200 or not.

Now bear in mind that I'm an impatient horribly impulsive person. I ended up buying it. No, I didn't do the right and responsible thing and take it to a mechanic first, and no, I didn't to the right thing and try to negotiate the price down. I'm horrible at negotiation like that with strangers. Either way, I've made my bed and will live with whatever the concequences of buying it mostly untested.

THAT said, I'll be taking posession of it and putting it on the road in a day or two. In a back-assward way, I'll run through all the checklist items that were posted on this thread. That's an awsome list.

I really want to take care of this car and make it last a while.

Will update you when the head gasket blows in a week!

 

[Yesterday617]

Oh, and about this part: "If manual how's the clutch? how easily does the car shift from 1st to 2nd without depressing the clutch?.. If you push gently it should be able to slide right in without any grinding"

Does that mean this should be done while driving? Is it a normal thing to shift the car this way and I've never known it?!?

 

[epj3]

Oh, and about this part: "If manual how's the clutch? how easily does the car shift from 1st to 2nd without depressing the clutch?.. If you push gently it should be able to slide right in without any grinding"

Does that mean this should be done while driving? Is it a normal thing to shift the car this way and I've never known it?!?

Hehe I think they mean with engine off...you CAN indeed shift w/out a clutch if you rev match, and some race drivers use the method, but it's not a big deal now with synchro's and better clutch systems.

If you ever hear a truck driver grind gears (like a tractor trailer), it's becuase they usually don't have synchro's - sure they use the clutch, but they still have to rev match.

 

[mjbst111]

it is not recommended. If done incorrectly or at the wrong speed you can crunch gears and or do decent wear to the 2nd gear syncro.

It can be done but if you don't know how don't..... just feel it for how it shifts into second cold (car in cold climate while engine still cold) since you already bought it, that is a good enough test.

 

[mjbst111]

Hehe I think they mean with engine off...you CAN indeed shift w/out a clutch if you rev match, and some race drivers use the method, but it's not a big deal now with synchro's and better clutch systems.

If you ever hear a truck driver grind gears (like a tractor trailer), it's becuase they usually don't have synchro's - sure they use the clutch, but they still have to rev match.

you beat me.... haha

 

[Yesterday617]

Good afternoon!

So I picked it up yesterday evening and so far have no real complaints. There's a couple of little issues with it that the old owner had listed, but it's nothing I can't deal with. The only thing that I was concerned with was the the engine runs hot. The water temp. gague kept being pretty high, almost to the red at times. The old owner said it just does this and it's not an important issue, but I think he was just saying that to assuage me. Any thoughts?

 

[mjbst111]

red is bad... you don't let it run in the red do you?

It probably needs a new fan clutch. do a search on fan clutch, it is a very commom problem for the e30's

 

[epj3]

red is bad... you don't let it run in the red do you?

It probably needs a new fan clutch. do a search on fan clutch, it is a very commom problem for the e30's

As with buying anynew car - esp one of this age, I'd say go ahead and change all fluids. Antifreeze, motoroil, steering fluid (ATF), tranny fluid, and differential fluid. Get new spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, and a new thermostat while you're at it.

You might spend $150 on all of that but you'll probably get rid of the overheating problem (a bad fan clutch usually wont make it run in red, it sounds like a bad thermostat)

 

[Chesty Bonds]

a bad fan clutch usually wont make it run in red, it sounds like a bad thermostat

Yeah I thought thermostats are designed to fail open rather than closed though: i.e. if they fail, the engine won't warm up, rather than overheat.

 

[mjbst111]

Yeah I thought thermostats are designed to fail open rather than closed though: i.e. if they fail, the engine won't warm up, rather than overheat.

thats all i have experienced.

Eric - I guess it depends on when its goes towerd red.... If it does it while stuck in traffic but not when he is on the highway, it is almost definitely the fan clutch. (And/Or the aux fan switch or resistor)

 

[epj3]

thats all i have experienced.

Eric - I guess it depends on when its goes towerd red.... If it does it while stuck in traffic but not when he is on the highway, it is almost definitely the fan clutch. (And/Or the aux fan switch or resistor)

That's true. My fan clutch was bad on my e30 but it never got close to red - it would just climb to about half way between the top center hash and the one to the right of it.

And yea - the aux fan should've turned on at some point if it happens in traffic only. I still say he should replace the thermostat - i've seen thermostats get stuck PARTIALLY open, so they never warm up completely, but in traffic they get to hot from no coolant going through the radiator.

 

[mjbst111]

i agree, it really would only make sense to replace the easiest, cheapest part first... the thermostat. It'd eb good to replace anyway, doesn't seem like the last owner cared to replace those kind of things if he said its normal to run hot..... That is really scary to me...

 

[epj3]

i agree, it really would only make sense to replace the easiest, cheapest part first... the thermostat. It'd eb good to replace anyway, doesn't seem like the last owner cared to replace those kind of things if he said its normal to run hot..... That is really scary to me...

Yea me too. I don't think it happens to the M20's, but I know the M30's heads will warp if they overheat! eeek.

 

[Yesterday617]

Yeah, it mainly happened while in traffic, and it didn't actually to INTO the red, but was on the precipice. I'll do all the stuff mentioned above when I take it to the new mechanic next week and have it checked out.

I'm relatively satisfied with it though. I don't think I made a bad decision. Yet!

 

[Yesterday617]

Hi all again - sorry if this thread is too boring. Quick update:

Been driving her around for the past week mostly without incident. There's a mysterious beeping sound that happens a couple times a day though. It's three short beeps. I can't for the life of me figure out what it signals, 'cause there aren't any glaringly obvious causes when it happens. Anyone have a clue?

It's still heating up pretty high when in traffic / stopped for a while with the engine running. I'm going to do the thermostat replacement this weekend and hopefully that'll fix the issue. Also going to be changing all the fluids and whatnot as well.

She runs like a tank on this highway, which I'm thankful for. Nice and quiet.

 

[mjbst111]

if the beeps happen a minute before each hour it is the memo on the clock display. Hit the memo button to turn it off.

if it only heats up in traffic i bet your looking at a fan clutch. you might want to see if the aux fan works too. Turn on your A/C and see if the aux fan turns on. That is a quick test for the low speed setting on the aux fan. But yeah give the thermostat a try.